Sunday, October 31, 2010

Metro!

We had been in eastern and rural Turkey for a couple weeks or more. Even in Antakya we couldn't find a decent supermarket. Our cupboards were beginning to get bare. The little village markets and shops carry very little. So imagine our thrill when, driving through Alanya, we happened onto a Metro, Turkey's version of Costco.
There it is; even sells tires; but no free samples nor
raspberry chipotle
















Interior view















Alas, produce was available only in bulk sizes; not exactly
what you're looking for in a small RV with a 3.9 cubic foot
refrigerator

















But they did have some few American products, and many
other products had English sub-titles
















Turks eat a lot of yogurt; a lot a lot; these are 10 and 15 liter
containers
















But the coolest part of the store was the charcuterie, where
they keep the meats and dairy (and olives), 34 degrees F,
and they provide vests and jackets for shoppers

















There I am in the charcuterie, suitably attired,
with a hunk of meat we judged probably not
of a pig

Republic Day in Alanya

We drove on from Anemurium, several hours of mountain/coastal road, more road construction, down into a valley and the sea, then back up another mountain precipice, and on and on. The agriculture in these parts is all banana "plantations," sometimes quite large, sometimes outside, sometimes in humongous green-houses. Anemur is famous for its bananas, so we picked up a bunch at a road-side stand. We drove on. There were no rest areas, no truck-stops, and the three campgrounds we had been counting on had all closed for the season. Night fell. It started raining, hard. We drove on. At length we came to the outskirts of Alanya and put up for the night at a large gas station.

Alanya is the beginning of the Turkish Riviera, and we
awoke the next morning to find ourselves surrounded by
giant resort hotels, some like mountain-top fortresses

















Happily, we were right along the beach--the beginning of
a public beach that goes on for miles and has impressive
amenties--picnic areas, walk-ways, cafes, exercise stations,
playgrounds, for miles; here's a view of Alanya promontory
with its medieval castle (another one we skipped)



















It was Republic Day in Turkey, celebrating the founding
of the Republic in 1923, under it's strong-man leader,
Moustafa Kemal Ataturk; Ataturk is reverred in Turkey even
more than Mao in China (and deservedly so); one sees as
many likeness of him as one sees of the flag; they are
usually side-by-side



















We stopped by a little school celebration of Republic Day















Nationalism is very strong in Turkey; we hope it will remain
so...

Anemurium

A few miles west of Anemur is the ruined Roman city of Anemurium, right on the beach, flourishing for hundreds of years, then toppled by the 580 earth-quake and then, after the decline of Roman and Byzantine seapower, so vulverable to pirate raids it was never again re-occupied. We're beginning to understand that there are not half a dozen of these cities, or a dozen, but scores, just in Turkey.
A bit of the scope of the thing...














Palaestra...sort of the municipal Gold's Gym














Byzantine basilica














Aquaduct














Baths














Baths from above














Wall, upper reaches on the mountain














Looking back across the bay to Anemur














And its many high-rises













Pebble Beach














And a necroplis that seemed much larger than the city... what you might expect 
for a place with stable population for 8 or 9 centuries and their mortuary customs

Saturday, October 30, 2010

Mamure Castle

So Thursday morning we drove back down from the mountains, into Silifke, and on to our goals for the day, Mamure Castle and the Roman ruins at Anemurium...
Skipping the fortress at Silifke















Driving the challenging coast road, D400--traffic, construction, great heights 
above the Mediterranean...
















For example; they are putting in a 4-lane highway, which will extend the Turkish 
Riviera another hundred miles or so and bring much greater vitality to the eastern 
coast; but it's another 5 years off in my estimation















Also skipping the later medieval Armenian fortress, Softa...















Finally reaching Mamure, the great old Crusader castle; built on much older 
fortress sites, captured by the Ottomans in the 14th century; still very much 
intact, and impressively large, said to be the largest on Turkey's Mediterranean


















Three sides of it are on the sea
















View from one of the interior courtyards; note lack of handrails on stairs 
leading to battlements















Its mountainous backdrop















Seaward view














Its main tower on the left















Climbing the tower

















Another interior view--hall off the tower





















View from the tower; can't get the whole castle onto one frame

















Staircase back down




















One more view




















Wednesday, October 27, 2010

It's a Long Way to Kizkalesi; It's Even Further to Uzuncaburc

Our driving today, perhaps 50 miles tops, took us through Kizkalesi along the coast and then up into the mountains, through some incredible limestone gorges, for a look at Uzuncaburc and environs, the former Roman city of Diocaesarea.
Kizkalesi, the castle, a couple hundred meters off shore















Land-lubbing Korykos castle, back on shore; this part of the coast was built-up 
through Greek/Roman/Byzantine times, then depopulated in later years; much 
remains of the earlier times


















Arch at Korykos















Roman tomb on the way to Uzuncaburc




















East gate to Diocaesarea















Detail (paint still showing) from Temple of Zeus Olbius















Temple of Zeus Olbius















Another day, another amphitheatre















Hellenistic citadel/tower, standing close by (2nd-3rd century 
BCE)




















OK, the Greeks at this point are still working on the arch 
thing, but they are very, very close here...gravity+friction...
interior, ground floor






















Another day, another necropolis















We decided to stay up high in the mountains (3,500 feet), parked in what we think 
is like a national forest picnic area; so far, no sign of the park ranger; also no 
barking dogs, and for the first time in weeks, no calls to prayer at 5:30AM (we
hope)