Luzern

We spent the better part of Sunday in Luzern, a city we have visited once or twice before.

Lakefront downtown

Arch

The very famous bridge and water tower

The bridge used to be decorated with dozens of 17th or

18th century Renaissance-style paintings, depicting the

city's history; beheading was a favorite theme...

But in 1993, they had a fire, and many were destroyed

Including this one

We had planned on visiting the Rosengart Collection

Our strategy in visiting less well-known museums,

particularly those featuring 20th century work, is to visit

the gift store first, check out the post-cards, and then

decide whether there was anything we had to see...

especially @ $17 per person

The Rosengart Collection lost out

So we visited the bahnhof shopping mall, the culture center,

and

Just sat in the park by the lake

And admired the view

Toys on Parade at the Susten Pass

So en route from Interlachen to Luzern, we decided to drive the fearsome Susten Pass road, one we had possibly not done before. The east side was in the clouds, mostly a white-out with 87 hair-pin turns, etc. Just short of the pass, we stopped in a parking lot for lunch, and to examine the six (Lotus/Caterham) 7's that pulled in behind us.

One of my favorite cars--sorry, Ken, no red ones...

BRG, of course

And a lime green; they all had headsets, talking to each

other

And then, no sooner had they buzzed off, than a cavalcade

of exotics, maybe 20 of them all in a line, came roaring

down the road...

I barely had time to reach for the camera

Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Maseratis, all gunning their

engines after the tight turn...

And keep snapping pix

We finally lumbered on up to the pass, where the clouds

thinned a bit

The road back down the other side

Nicer views

And then, finally in Luzern, Tribschen actually, aloft,

another toy, possibly the same tri-motor I had seen

above the Eiger; and not a Ford Tri-Motor, either...

("oh, no, dem Fokkers were flying Messerschmitts...")

Swiss Wedding Parade

We had been seeing French and Swiss wedding entourages for a couple weeks. Cars are a major part of it all, decorated with bouquets and streamers, proceeding to the ceremony, then "chasing" the newlyweds out of town. Vicki got these three pix somewhere east of Interlachen. Near Les Houches we saw a cavalcade of some 30 cars.

Eigernordwand 3

More scenes from my Eigernordwand walk...

The trail, further on; lots of people, some

hiking up, most hiking down; it's a relatively new

trail

The north face is too angular to hold much snow or ice, but

there are some snow fields and dozens of waterfalls on the

lowest cliffs

Another, closer up

Another

Cutting some interesting deep clefts in the

limestone

Ditto

And at last we're back down, near Alpigen and

the train ride back 

Random Oberland scenery from the train

And back in Grindelwald

Vicki spent the day favoring her knee, reading, and doing the wash. I owe her yet another one.

Eigernordwand 2

It was a good day for hiking. Under the north face, however, it is a bit tricky to guess the right time to be there and see what you want to see: increasing valley haze, clouds, position of the sun and shadows, and so on, are all complicating factors. Part of the north face phenomenon, in this hemisphere, is that they get little or no direct sunlight. So in July, you're staring up into the sun, trying to see a 5,000 foot face that's in the shade. With the angle, foreshortening of perspective, other things, it can be frustrating. But still pretty neat...

Part of the station at Eigergletscher...enlarge to see the cogs

on the middle tracks

Closer up of Eiger glacier

Rounding a bend as the trail begins, you get

sort of a profile view closer up

Your can see the trail, upper right, and the terrain, which

was pretty easy

Looking toward the summit betwixt two

huge pinnacles

Below, the crossroads of Kleine Scheidegg

Play of shadow, angle, light, somewhere

below the north face

Round another bend and you're below the

"direct" area of the north face climbs, with

this helpful sign depicting some of the

classic attempts/routes; the box shows the

position of the Eigerwand train station,

inside the mountain, where you actually stop,

get out, go look out the big windows; the

weisse spinne above is the famous White

Spider, which conveniently funnels all the

avalanche and rock fall above onto the

north face routes; the sign well conveys

the concave nature of the whole face; in the

30s they called it all the "Mordwand"; the

north face is mostly climbed in the winter

nowadays

Artsy-fartsy attempt...

Grindelwald and valley below; and the Weisshorn

Another summit-ward view

Clumps of tiny Alpine flowers everywhere

Eigernordwand 1

Thursday the clouds hung low over the mountains and valley, and, apart from a few reconnoitering walks, we did not do much. Friday I was up early to hop the 8:17 train out of Grindelwald up to Kleine Scheidegg. From there I walked up to Eigergletscher and began my crossing of the Eigernordwand, the Eiger North Face, albeit on a trail, generally on the 7,000 foot contour, above tree-line and just below the the first bands of cliffs.

Early morning prospects for a good day

The Hotel Bellvue, at Kleine Scheidegg, from which, in

the 1930s, tourists could watch attempts on the

Eigernordwand; I stopped for coffee and a look around

The Jungfraujoch--the saddle between the Monch and the

Jungfrau; on the left is the "Sphinx", the observatory/train

station...the Jungfraubahn takes you from Kleine

Scheidegg up into the Eiger, with a stop on the North Face

itself, then back through the Monch and to this station (we

did this years ago with the girls); the Jungfrau summit is on

the right

By 9:45, the Junfraujoch was clouding up; pity all the

hundreds of people who paid $100 a piece for the view

from "The Top of Europe" this morning

Swiss ingenuity: no tarn where you need one? Just build
your own!

Profile of Eigernordwand, way below the

Eigergletscher

From the Eigergletscher moraine, looking

across the Lauterbrunnen Valley--which is

so far down in the hole you can't see it;

among the cliffs are the Staubbach, the

famous waterfall, the village of Murren on

top, and, above right, in another cloud, the

Schilthorn, which I climbed Monday

A marmot on a rock just below the Eigergletscher

Off the Jungfrau, a flock of Crebain out of Dunland; no,

wait, that's New Zealand; or the Misty Mountains; or ...

Looking across the Eiger glacier to the

summit of the Monch