...recounts the retirement travels of Mark and Vicki Sherouse since 2008...in Asia and the Pacific, New Zealand, Europe, South America, and Africa, as well as the US and Canada. Our website, with much practical information, is: https://sites.google.com/site/theroadgoeseveron/.Contact us at mark.sherouse@gmail.com or vsherouse@gmail.com.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Andalsnes' Train Chapel
We hadn't been to a cathedral or stave church in--what? days--so we decided to visit Andalsnes world-famous train chapel, situated right on the harbor
Sanctum Sanctorum
The High Altar, where Vicki gave thanks for another's day safe driving in the mountains
Hell on Wheels; or, Vicki's Worst Nightmare
Pix taken by Vicki's own trembling hand...
There's always a price to pay with beautiful alpine scenery
There's always a price to pay with beautiful alpine scenery
Don't look down |
Congestion, all along the way, stopping, squeezing past |
Finally at the bottom |
In troll country |
Trollstigveien
The road from Olden, Styrns, then Gerianger, and then on past Ornvegen and the Trollstigveien, to Andalsnes, was the best Norwegian scenery we have seen; Trollstigveien reminded us particularly of the American west, Montana and Wyoming, at their early summer best
Green and granite, and snow |
Like the Winds in Wyoming |
Double-Pingora, Cirque of the Towers |
Ornevegen
Rest area at Ornevegen summit; eight RVs there that night
Orenevegen view of Geirangerfjord
Strawberry fields in Valldal valley, on the Ornevegen road; we
bought a couple baskets; the Ornevegen drive was down a
beautiful valley, less the extremes of the mountains and fjords
Part of the Gudbrandsbru, a water feature on the
Ornevegen
Leaving Geiranger
Dining al fresco, like European campers do; our German neighbors approved of the currywurst, rotbet, bier, etc.
A big ship parked right next door and blocked our view
But Vicki got some good pix of the mooring; then we left
Fiord ponies visited the Grey Wanderer at our next stop; not exactly Shadowfax
Geriangerfjord from the Ornevegen summit
Us at Ornevegen
Vicki adds:
July 10, 2009 Geiranger, Norway
The past few days we have driven through the fiord area and it has been wonderful. Last night though as we drove to the top of Djupvasshytta (quite a mouthful) at about 5,000 ft the whiteout moved in. We had followed 5 tour buses to top of a steep, winding toll road and we were determined to wait for the view to clear. Which it did, at least for a few minutes, and it was magnificent as you could see all the way down to the fiord at sea level. I was unwilling to drive back down in the whiteout so we stayed the night and gave up waiting for the clouds to lift at 10 this morning. I decided to stay in the back of the camper and read on the way down as my nerves are shot. I can deal with winding roads, steep roads, drop offs with no guard rails. What I can't deal with is one lane winding, steep roads with two way traffic including tour buses! The tunnels have also been interesting as we have probably passed through over a hundred in the last 3 days, some as long as 6 miles. They are not normal tunnels—they have s curves, they go up (10% grade), they go down (8% grade) and they also can be 1 lane with two way traffic—and none of them have lights. So my nerves are a bit frazzled and I keep demanding Mark not to go over 10 mph. We are now at a campground at the end of the fiord and will wait for tomorrow to take the sightseeing cruise and then the Eagle's Road up the mountain as the weather is supposed to be better.
Right now outside our window is a huge cruise ship. Cruising the fiords is very popular and great for people who can't get around very well as you can see all the beauty from the deck. I talked to a man from San Diego who was on a 7 day cruise through 7 fiords and they were loving it. I have no idea what that costs but given the prices of rooms and food here, it is probably cheaper than doing it by car. Write to me. Vicki
Geirangerfjord Cruise
It was the economy cruise
Sunday we did the brief Geriangerfjord cruise; Dalsnippa is the mountain, way back in the middle, where we spent the night
Geirangerfjord view
Seven Sisters waterfall; let's see, Sleepy, Grumpy, Sneezy...
The main Storfjord, of which the Geriangerfjord is an arm
Maids of the Mist, Norwegian fjord ferry
And old fiord farmstead; these are being restored, making Geriangerfjord another World Heritage site
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Another Reason to Like Ferries
Geirangerfjord
It rained the rest of Friday and was cloudy enough Saturday to discourage the fiord cruise, so we spent the day cleaning the camper, doing chores, etc. |
Grey Wanderer is smack in the middle |
About all there is to do in Geiranger is watch the cruise ships come and go |
Some debark and stay a while, some just turn around and leave for the next fjord |
Inscription on an RV parked near us: "Dream not your life,
live your dream" |
Friday, July 10, 2009
More Mountains and More Glaciers: Briksdalbreen and Dalsnibba
We detoured again today, driving up the Olden valley, past beautiful high lakes, mountains, glaciers, waterfalls all around, to the Briksdalbreen, the Briksal glacier. It's a 4km hike up from the carpark. I'm beginning to think of the Jostedalsbreen, the big glacier, as rather an ice field, like the Columbia Ice Field in Banff/Jasper National Parks, in Canada, that covers many square miles, feeds three oceans, and has many glacial outlets. The Briksdalbreen is such an outlet of the Jostedalsbreen, I gather; there were three or four other outlets within the immediate vicinity. Interestingly, glaciologists say now that the Jostedalsbreen had completely melted away 8,000-10,000 years ago, and that all its growth, especially in the mini-Ice Age of the mid-18th century, has been relatively recent. The Briskal glacier reached its greatest extent in 1996-97, but has receded somewhat since then. Micro-climates, they say.
The Briksal glacier, in any case, is large enough, the tongue fairly angular. We walked to within half a kilometer of it, snapped some pix, stopped, and had lunch. I guess our experience in New Zealand, seeing a calving that killed two men, has made us a bit glacier-shy. Plenty of people are not, however. “People just love to touch the ice,” as the Kiwi park ranger said.
We drove back to Olden, then Styrn, and set forth on the “Golden Route,” the alpine road that links our next goal, Geiranger and Geiranger Fiord, with its north and south neighbors. It is a beautiful wide road, with several long (4-5km) tunnels, that winds up into some high and desolate alpine scenery. We got as far as the toll road up the Dalsnippa, a 1500m peak, and decided to follow the tour buses up it. The road was OK, if quite exposed. We entered a white-out several hundred feet from the summit, and resolved to park at the summit until the clouds lifted. We (Vicki) did not want to drive down in the white-out; and we wanted our 80 kroners worth of scenery!
The clouds did lift temporarily about 7PM, and we had some fine views of surrounding peaks, Geiranger and Geiranger Fiord, 1500m below. A big cruise ship was leaving Geiranger. Interestingly, or not, there are six of us parked here at the summit, for the night. At least it should be quiet.
The Briksal glacier, in any case, is large enough, the tongue fairly angular. We walked to within half a kilometer of it, snapped some pix, stopped, and had lunch. I guess our experience in New Zealand, seeing a calving that killed two men, has made us a bit glacier-shy. Plenty of people are not, however. “People just love to touch the ice,” as the Kiwi park ranger said.
We drove back to Olden, then Styrn, and set forth on the “Golden Route,” the alpine road that links our next goal, Geiranger and Geiranger Fiord, with its north and south neighbors. It is a beautiful wide road, with several long (4-5km) tunnels, that winds up into some high and desolate alpine scenery. We got as far as the toll road up the Dalsnippa, a 1500m peak, and decided to follow the tour buses up it. The road was OK, if quite exposed. We entered a white-out several hundred feet from the summit, and resolved to park at the summit until the clouds lifted. We (Vicki) did not want to drive down in the white-out; and we wanted our 80 kroners worth of scenery!
The clouds did lift temporarily about 7PM, and we had some fine views of surrounding peaks, Geiranger and Geiranger Fiord, 1500m below. A big cruise ship was leaving Geiranger. Interestingly, or not, there are six of us parked here at the summit, for the night. At least it should be quiet.
Mountains, glaciers, waterfalls...everywhere
Me at the National Park boundary
Briksdal glacier
Up closer; click to enlarge and see them touching the ice
Atop Dalsnibba, cairns everywhere
Geiranger and Geirangerfjord from Dalsnibba
Up closer of the cruise ship leaving
Proof...
Vagsoy, Maloy
Quaint little Norwegian fishing village...well, that's what we were expecting. Instead, Maloy is a sizable little town, a commercial fishing center (canneries, etc), major harbor, gateway to the Nordfjord, and a fun S-bridge to the mainland. We walked around the downtown a bit and then headed out to the ocean side of the island to see the Kannenstein, an interesting rock structure on the coast. See illustration. It is about 12 feet high, just a bit out in the water (crashing waves). I resisted Vicki's dare to wade out and climb up on it for a picture. I have had enough thrills recently. It was nice to see the Atlantic again, however. We drove back nearly the length of the Nordfjord (100 km) and camped, early, at yet another road-side rest, this one near Olden, still on the Nordfjord.
The Grey Wanderer, and our license plates, continue to make friends. Everyone wants to know why it says Dodge and not Mercedes. Sprinters are common enough here, and have been for many years, if not by that name. And everyone is curious about the US/Montana license plates. Did we ship it? Near Olden we met two Danish couples, one of whom had relations all over the states, CA, OH, ME, and had visited, she said, nine times. One of her daughters leads tours from Denmark to the US. And then there were two Swedish couples, also campers, and a French camper the next day.
The Grey Wanderer, and our license plates, continue to make friends. Everyone wants to know why it says Dodge and not Mercedes. Sprinters are common enough here, and have been for many years, if not by that name. And everyone is curious about the US/Montana license plates. Did we ship it? Near Olden we met two Danish couples, one of whom had relations all over the states, CA, OH, ME, and had visited, she said, nine times. One of her daughters leads tours from Denmark to the US. And then there were two Swedish couples, also campers, and a French camper the next day.
The Kannenstein, on the ocean side of Vagsoy |
Up close |
Part of the S-bridge that connects Vagsoy to the mainland |
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