Auxerre's Church of St. Eusebius

It's tough playing third fiddle. St. Eusebius would probably stand out in hundreds of other French towns. It's old, 12th century origins, Romanesque partly and Gothic partly, and, unlike many other such churches, its history is very well documented in a pamphlet; and in English too.

St. Eusebius church

Apse vaulting

16th century windows

Of interest: this pretty good copy of Leonardo's Last Supper, dated 1610

So the question is, what is it a copy of: the restored original? one of the early
copies?

A bit of the pamphlet

Starboard exterior

Port

Nice gargoyle

Auxerre's St. Germain Abbey Church, Crypt, And Frescoes

St. Germain, or Germanus, was actually a pretty famous saint, bishop of Auxerre in the 5th century, defender of the faith against the Pelagian heretics, missionary to the Brits, etc. How he came to be a cleric is a truly informative story. Anyhow, he founded the abbey that now bears his name in Auxerre, and his tomb is there, in the crypt, along with some 9th century frescoes, that is, Carolingian frescoes, oldest such in France. The abbey has been converted to a Gallo-Roman museum, and the crypt can be visited only on a guided tour, which is en Francais. We were the only visitors that afternoon, and the young guide was only too happy to practice her Anglais. It was so good, including the theological and archaeological terms, she really needed no practice. When she wasn't looking, I snapped a few interdit pix in the crypt. Before the crypt, we visited the cloisters, the church, and some of the museum exhibit areas.

St. Germain from St. Eusebius

As I have observed before, the French abhor empty space, and in cloisters
one is particularly apt to see contemporary sculpture or other objects...e. g.,
beach chairs arrayed all around

A few attempted artistic renderings

Spare parts

Now in the church, 13th or so with much older bits below

Abhoring empty space

"Je deteste les espaces vides!"

In the museum/archaeological space

Specimen

Hallway depicting the line of French monarchy

Back in the cloister

Note patched-in half-timber wall

Now in the crypt, looking into the chamber where St. Germain's tomb is, for
centuries, a major pilgrimage site; the beams are 1200 years old

Photo of a photo, looking at the sarcophogus; when opened a few centuries ago,
it was found to be empty; we surmise all the body parts had been sold to other
churches, collectors, et al.

The sarcophogus in there somewhere

The frescoes, all of them Carolingian, were discovered only in 1927; here, the
stoning of Stephen

Education of bishops: new learning from old

Old learning from new (so the guide explained)

Back outside, the abbey's Romanesque tower

Auxerre Cathedral, Crypt and Sculpture

Did I mention it is a St. Stephen church? Apparently they, like Bourges, didn't get the memo about the Marian cult.

South tympanum

Not entirely sure what is going on here, just inside the south door

Interestingly, there are funny faces all around the interior of the ambulatory, the
most sacred space; usually, they're on the outside, which is considered profane
(by some)

Yes, she prayed here, February 27, 1429, so the plaque said

Now headed down to the 11th century crypt and its very old
frescoes: Behave Yourself!

What remains is largely from Revelations: 4 Horseman, and a
Sauveur en cheval; Crowley

Another Horseman; Miller

Another Horseman; Layden

Yet another Horseman; Stuhldreher

Today's Pantokrator; Rockne?

Revelations 19:11-16: "Now I saw Heaven opened and, behold, a white horse.
And He who sat on him was called Faith and True and in Righteousness He
judges and makes war." Etc.

Googling "Jesus on horseback" takes you for quite a ride. Hi-ho, Silver.

Meanwhile, back upstairs, among the interior funny faces, this cathedral has not one
but two Green Men; only one is pictured, however

The 90 degree stuff reminded me of some other Gothic...
Senlis, Noyon? Looks like an accordion

Ample sculpture at Auxerre, but fairly degraded by weather, Revolutions...

Judgement

They never got around to finishing the tower, nor building
another, and, while Auxerre appears balanced and harmonious
on the inside, it is anything but on the outside