Generally speaking, the older and more seemingly disorganized a cathedral, the more interesting we find it. Saint-Sauveur in Aix is hard to beat in that regard. We have seen older cathedral renovations: e.g., a baroque church built on top of a
Greek Doric temple in Sicily. But Saint-Sauveur was built on top of the Roman forum, incorporating bits of it, first as a parish church, then revised as the church of one of the orders, then finally revised as a cathedral when Aix became the capital. It's always fascinating to see the layers of Romanesque, Gothic, then Baroque, side by side or one on top of the other. Add a conspicuous layer of Roman, or Greek, and you really have something.
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Facade of the cathedral complex |
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Guess who attended the university across the street |
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Gothic facade |
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Helpful floor-plan; looks like a conventional nave with two side aisles; but it's
more complicated than that, with the aisles (and chapels) having come in in
different ages and for different purposes... |
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It's all fascinating, but the Baptistry is the most fascinating: eight Roman columns
with Corinthian capitals, recycled from the Forum; we'll see this octagonal baptistry
design again in Frejus, a few miles down the road |
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Gothic nave/aisle |
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Interesting non-Christian-looking pediment up high in the
Romanesque nave |
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Few windows |
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So visits to the cloisters are by guided tour only, so we interrupt this visit to the
cathedral to have a look into the Romanesque cloisters |
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Thus nicely landscaped |
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The carving quite good, old, generally well-preserved |
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"Please proceed to the left" |
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The capitals in the four corners are the attributes of the four gospel writers;
here, my personal favorite, the lion, Mark |
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Highly regarded statue of St. Peter |
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Now in the Baptistry, looking up at the dome and oculus, much later additions |
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Original baptistry pool, the oldest bit, going back to early Christian times |
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Remnant of painting in Baptistry |
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Remnant of mosaic, on the wall, thus probably very late Roman, Roman/Christian |
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Ample info on evolution of the Baptistry |
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The pediment again |
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Vaulting in Gothic aisle |
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Barrel vaulting in Romanesque nave |
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Note the non-Christian-looking little columns up high |
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Exposed bit of the Roman Forum under the church |
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Crossing...fascinating church! |