St. Paul de Vence, 1

Although we've seen our share of Provence and bastides over the years, we thought we'd do another, especially since Provence is just up the hill. We thought about Grasse, but we're going to do a perfume thing in Paris in a few weeks, and Grasse is not really all that attractive, according to Michelin. So we settled on St. Paul de Vence. The L2 tram took us to Parc Phoenix, wherefrom bus #650 took us to old friend Cagnes sur Mer, wherefrom bus #655 took us on up to St. Paul de Vence, definitely a hill fortress town, a bastide. About 10 miles, as the horse flies. It was during the May Day long weekend, but the beauty of the place dwarfed the crowds, and what we saw was probably our best excursion of this campaign. St. Paul de Vence is billed as an artists' town, and, indeed, it is, both historically and presently, with scores of studios and galleries, much public sculpture and other art to admire.

Well, you can see the Cote d'Azur from here, but I
think we're in Provence

On approach, from the bus

Very formidable walls; walkable, too, and never breached

My poubelle filter was not working

Helpful map #17,492; this is a place, however, where you want to
wander, get lost...

Beauty everywhere; local sculptures like this all over 

Peering into a sculpture shop

Interesting conflations of the natural and the man-made

A gallery loaded with authenticated Picassos, Chagalls, etc.

Why didn't I think of that department: fridge magnets of framed
paintings by the great (French) masters

Town fountain; in the frame above, lower right, just below
Renoir's Luncheon of the Boating Party

Many of the town's mail boxes so decorated

Very old flower box jade plant escaping from the confines of the 
window grill...apparently a thing in St. Paul, something we've not seen
elsewhere

Could be a running gag

Bell tower of the church

Very old Romanesque

Angel dictating gospel to Luke: "no, no, no...'it came to
pass', not 'he came too fast'"

Sanctuary lamp in the church...usually they are just
red, but this is an artists' town, so...

Adjoining Penitents' Chapel

Still More Scenes From Old And Not So Old Nice

Have I mentioned that the bird of paradise is apparently
the national flower of the Cote d'Azur? Seen here in the
garden of the Massena Museum 

Another view of the Negresco: other than being a guest, the
only way to see the inside is to eat at one of the restaurants, 
which are generally fully booked

What one might expect to see

Vicki on one of the blue chairs

The Nice Casino is one of the better art deco buildings

Closer up

Monument to the victims of the jihadist attack on July 14, 2016...
more than 80 killed and 400 injured...right on the Promenade

Place Massena by night, with illuminated statues

Thus

The kiddie playground near us...all the play apparati are on a marine
theme...here the giant octopi

Giant whale slide

Whale tail swings and tortoise beyond

Now at the market by the old Gare Sud..."the Peoples'
market"...Fleurs des courgettes...flowers of squash...springtime
specialty, edible, in a variety of dishes

Extremely rare albino sunflowers

Very interesting market...perhaps the largest veggie market we've 
seen, but, only produce, flowers and seafood, at least this day...no
cheese, meat, poultry, bread, spices, wines, clothes, antiques, brocante,
housewares, crap

The seafood vendors went on for a block...with fish and oysters
from the Channel as well as all the expected Mediterranean 
species

Soon to be on The Way

Why I don't eat bouillabaise on the Mediterranean

The old Gare Sud is mostly a food court now, but also a library...here,
an interesting but unidentified statue

The food court

Gare Sud

Late bloomers finally leafing out

May Day/Labor Day Parade In Nice

We have learned over the years that May is a perilous time to be traveling in France. May Day, VE Day, Mother's Day, and, depending on the Judaeo-Christian foodie (feast) calendar, Assumption Day,* maybe even Pentecost, all can occur in May, all national holidays: no buses, no trams, no trains, not even taxis in some places. The French love May: as many as four or even five faires les ponts--bridge days, where a national holiday is appropriated to make a three-, four-, or five-day weekend. We have learned to plan ahead, including meals (closures) and tours (crowds), to schedule around them, and, to the extent possible, to enjoy them. Such was May Day here in Nice. Traditionally associated with the world's communist parties, it is now simply Labor Day, a day for the unions, a spectacle not to be missed, especially the May Day parade. We headed for the Place de Massena, the parade starting point, and, while not impressed, we were not disappointed. 

Nice day for a parade

OK, it's not the Tournament of Roses...

It's about a 2 hour walk from central Nice to the airport; almost entirely
along the Promenade des Anglais, so at least it's scenic, and there are
refreshments along the way...here and there...

Sign of the times

*or possibly Ascension Day