Sir John Soane's Museum, 2024

We first visited Sir John Soane's Museum at the end of our 2022 London campaign, were blown away, and resolved to visit it again, next time in town, and to do it via the guided tour. Hardly anything in the "museum" is labeled (and much of what is labeled is mis-labeled). Soane was a late Georgian/Regency architect of note and professor of architecture in the Royal Academy, and what became the "museum" was really his house, twice expanded, which doubled as his firm's offices, his classroom and teaching lab. Drawings, prints, paintings, models, architectural designs, casts, actual artifacts--thousands of objects, all left exactly as they were at his death in 1837, donated to the Nation. Marie Kondo's worst nightmare. Anyhow, we did the Museum again, this time with Rebecca, who had wisely reserved us spots in both the guided tour and later in the "drawing room" too (same day reservation). As good as our first visit was, this one was far, far better. See my 2022 post for more pix and narrative. 

The museum occupies the three buildings in the center

There were convex mirrors in nearly every room--architects
need light, right?--and one room had some 122 mirrors, mostly
of the convex variety

Our guide opening out the full Rake's Progress series; Soane and
Hogarth were pals; the guide packed about 3 hours of wisdom and wit
into the 90 minute tour; one of our best ever

Turner and Soane were pals, too; Refectory of Kirkstall Abbey, 1798

Sir John evidently was a fan of Paestum, as we are

Also funny faces

Interesting adjustable stove in the kitchen; Victorian, actually, used
by the staff

Obligatory staircase shot

Not your typical British drawing room: this is where Soane's students
labored, drawing, copying, learning architecture

Battersea Power Station/Shopping Centre

We can see Battersea's four giant smoke stacks from our flat...it's not a quarter mile away, over and up the river a bit. The power station was built in the 1930s and is considered one of the world's largest brick structures. It must certainly be the world' largest art deco brick structure. Both RAF and German pilots used the plumes of its smoke stacks for navigation in the fog, and consequently it was never bombed. (The German air ministry in Berlin was never bombed because Goering was widely regarded by the Allies as an idiot and to be kept in power). At its height, Battersea powered a fifth of London, including much of the central city. As its power-generating days came to a close, in the 70s or 80s, it was given Grade II status, which connotes architectural or historical significance. It was designed by the same architect who did the red telephone booths. "No job too big nor too small." Something one has to see, especially considering it is now one of London's newest shopping/residential areas, and, more importantly, the location of the nearest Marks and Spencers. There's a Battersea Park, too, quite large, but we haven't been there yet. The similarly large Bankside power station, just down the river a mile or so, is now the Tate Modern Museum. Wasted space, in our opinion.

Battersea from our side of the river; surrounded by shopping areas,
high-rise condos, etc.

Approaching from the Chelsea Bridge

Note unmistakable art deco features

Inside one of the giant turbine halls...the Apple store is
on the lowest level, left; the Ray Ban store further down 
on the right; the boulangerie on the ground level, right;
etc.

Just like the galleria in your town, except for the unmistakable art
deco features....

Apsley House, 2

Apart from the Prado, is there a room in any museum anywhere that has four (4) Velazquez paintings? The Louvre has none (0). And there are many more artworks at Apsley, most acquired, I conjecture, as a result of Wellington's command during the Peninsular War, when he and fellow Brits ridded Spain of the Bonapartes. Below is the merest sample. The picture gallery--the great hall--is hung floor to ceiling with works of the masters (not to mention the hinged Versailles-type mirrors).

Velazquez, A Spanish Gentleman

Velazquez, Two Young Men Eating at a Humble Table

Velazquez, Pope Innocent X; muy famoso

Velazquez, The Water-seller of Seville (reputedly the
one that led to Velazquez' appointment as court painter)

Three Jan Breughels

Guido Reni, St. Joseph

Never miss a Claude Lorraine

One of several Jan Steens, The Egg Dance

Steen, The Dissolute Household

In the great hall...$9mm cost over-run, in today's dollars

Equestrian

Josephine, too

Yet another

One of the annual celebratory Waterloo dinners

One of the great hall's mirror/windows

Among the Rubens...

Grand staircase

In the basement, much historical/military stuff

Departing a very impressive place

Apsley House, 1

With Apsley House, the Duke of Wellington's London abode, you get a three-fer: 1) a fine 18th-19th century urban great house, now maintained by English Heritage, 2) Wellington, victor of Waterloo and scores of lesser battles, long-time politician/statesmen and twice Prime Minister, 3) Wellington's truly priceless collection of art, much of which came as gifts from grateful foreign leaders. Consequently, our visit to Apsley will require two posts, especially to reflect Wellington's strange obsession with his French adversary. The house was designed originally by Robert Adam, but thoroughly re-done later, to Wellington's wishes, until a 300% cost-over-run brought the re-build to an end. English Heritage has a fine website on Apsley House, here.

Of course we had to stop by one of the royal abodes along the way

Entrance to Apsley House, just outside Hyde Park, astride
the Wellington Arch...

Atop the Wellington Arch

Throughout the house, mementoes of Waterloo and its annual celebrations

Also throughout the house, portraits and other mementoes
of Napoleon...

Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington

Napoleon's army advances across the Danube to the battle of Wagram

Large room with fine porcelain, silver, gold, etc., largely gifts from
grateful European rulers who did not like Napoleon very much

Actually a table center-piece

Under the grand staircase, one of the real curiosities:
a more-than-life-size statue of Napoleon, commissioned by himself;
turns out Napoleon did not like it, and it somehow came to 
Wellington, to be displayed in perhaps the most prominent place
in the house

More Napoleon

Ditto

Not Napoleon

At this point, barely into the house, you're beginning
to wonder whose house it is...

The only depiction of Waterloo Wellington ever acquired (Sir
William Allan, 1843): "yes, not too much smoke" was Wellington's
comment; also "would look great over the stripey couch"

Assorted uniforms: he thoroughly mixed politics with military 
leadership throughout his long career, occasionally purchasing
rank or benefitting from the success of relations...his brother was
the Governor of India for a time, where Wellington had his first
great military successes (he much later described the Battle of
Assaye as his finest victory)(not Waterloo) 

Among the many life-sized portraits

Some more of the silver on display, another center-piece

Music room (?); pictures everywhere, not insignificant ones too
(see next post)