Monday, July 29, 2024

Tallinn Scenes, 1

We wanted to visit a second Baltic capital, and our choice was Tallinn, capital of Estonia, on the Gulf of Finland, across from Helsinki. Tallinn dates from the Middle Ages, an important port, and, like Latvia, contested ground for centuries. It doesn't have as much of the art nouveau architecture that Riga boasts of, but it has a well-preserved Medieval old town with many of its walls and towers still intact. 

It was a 4 hour ride on Flixbus; passing the slower cars and trucks
provided many thrills

The border; we barely slowed down

The terrain, once we got out of the very sizeable cities, was like this:
very flat, mostly forested, some crops, mostly grains, with occasional
glimpses of the Gulf of Riga or the Gulf of Finland

Our hotel, the Tallinn Old Town; new hotel, built right into the city
wall; the round building to the left is the old grain mill, powered by
horses; its well was used to supply the city during sieges; now the
hotel's restaurant

Big church on our street

Wall and towers

Every now and then, an art nouveau building; most
of the old town is much, much older


Half a block from our hotel, Fat Margaret, a giant artillery tower

Fat Margaret is the red dot; beyond it is the port (later post);
our hotel is just to its left

Typical: a much older stone building under the plaster,
with various iron reinforcements

Street scene

The interpretive/historical signage was exceptional and
everywhere; and in English too

KGB prison

They got Trump, Putin's "useful idiot," on the wrong team



Another instance where a bit of the old structure is left
to view, not plastered over

Another art nouveau

Interesting


Sunday, July 28, 2024

Riga Out-Takes

It took a few days for me to remember that Riga was an important
stop on Wagner's career: he arrived to be a conductor in the late 1830s,
escaping his German creditors, hoping to re-unite with his errant
wife, Minna, but soon realizing that his musico-dramatic ambitions
could never be realized in provincial places such as Riga; and
within a year or so he set forth for Paris, the score of Rienzi in his
baggage, and the voyage across the Baltic and North Sea providing
material for The Flying Dutchman; but I digress...anyhow...

The concert hall where he conducted has been in a sad state for some
years--condemned and closed to visitors--but is now being restored; it
was not hard to find, but whatever interpretive signage was on it had
been removed

The Mikhail Chekhov Riga Russian Theater...

Wants you to know it condemns Russia's aggression in the
Ukraine and all violence and aggression

Numerous bachelor and bachelorette parties were in
evidence in Riga

Interesting chocolate shop

Hard to resist


Fortified downspout
On the steps behind the Riga cathedral

Adoration of the Mystic Armadillo

And not far away, homage to the Bremen musicians

Yes, there are tiki bars in Riga


Click to enlarge and read about this very interesting bar concept


One in every town

Near our hotel...Urban Van Glamping

A sort-of hostel where you sleep in vans and trailers
parked in an old warehouse...with facilities, amenities

Also in our neighborhood...the Russian Orthodox Church; interestingly,
when Russia invaded Ukraine, the Latvian parliament required all
such churches in Latvia to sever relations with the Moscow church;
public school instruction in Russian was eliminated nation-wide too

Today's fixer-upper

Can get in on this from the ground up...

Haven't seen one of these in years

Another culinary break-through from McDonald's















































































































































I did sample the local specialty, Riga Black Balsam,
a powerful bitter concoction; once in a lifetime...

Riga's Art Nouveau Synagogue

Riga's synagogue is one of the few in occupied Europe that the Germans didn't destroy. They feared that dynamiting it would set the entire old city ablaze. Two generations later, anti-semitic terrorists bombed it, but it was rebuilt through a national and EU campaign. The other surviving art nouveau synagogue I know of is in Paris, in the Marais, designed by none other than Hector Guimard. The Germans didn't hesitate to destroy it, but the French rebuilt it after the war. It is perennially closed and under heavy security, so I don't expect ever to see its interior. I was determined to see Riga's building, however, and am pleased to post a few pix below. It is said to be art nouveau with neo-Egyptian references and flourishes. The architect was Wilhelm Neumann.















Unrelated art decos across the street

Star of David drain pipe (click to enlarge)