Saturday, May 6, 2023

Vermeer At The Rijksmuseum

We are not big Vermeer fans, but we have never knowingly missed a Vermeer painting, and perhaps one impetus for going to this show was to understand more fully what all the fuss is about. We read Tracy Chevalier's Girl with the Pearl Earring in our book club way back in our employment years, and then saw the movie--before ever seeing a Vermeer painting in person. We journeyed to San Francisco one year to see the Pearl Earring when the Mauritshuis was under renovation and its collection touring, and then to The Hague to see it and others when the museum was put back together again. And we have seen Tim's Vermeer, a fine movie/documentary indeed, which explores conjectures about Vermeer's technique. 

But, really, why all the fuss? The guy's artistic output was miniscule, the paintings all quite small, his influence nil, the subjects of little interest (or beauty), the paintings as a whole, most of them genre or tronie paintings, when seen together, a bit monotonous. Almost nothing, apart from public records, is known of him. The camera obscura/camera lucida thing is intriguing, sort of, but then Leeuwinhoek was a friend and in fact the executor of Vermeer's will. We'd hardly be shocked to learn that Picasso used x-rays if we knew that Madame Curie was a close personal bud. Visual art has always been about technology, developments in materials, media, instruments, understanding of optics and optical processing, and so on. (OK, also beauty, feeling, conviction...). The most interesting bit, to me, is that Vermeer never hesitated using the most expensive pigments, even for under-coating. Ultramarine. So it is written. Possibly self-taught--there's no record of his being anyone's student or apprentice--but he certainly understood color.

The exhibition itself was very crowded, the lighting not wonderful. Not ideal for photography. Nor for lingering study. The interpretive signage was helpful but not much beyond the "this is a middle-class woman standing by a table, in front of a window [always on the left], reading a letter" variety. The good news is that the entire exhibition, including interpretation, is available on-line. English interpretation by Stephen Fry. It sold out many months ago, 250,000 tickets in the first 24 hours alone. Just go to https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/johannes-vermeer?ss=. It's actually quite good. I took pix of all the paintings, and more, but, in view of the virtual visit available, I won't post them all. The absence of several of Vermeer's most admired pieces, e.g., The Girl with the Pearl Earring, the most famous of all tronies, was conspicuous and disappointing. Of course, it's only 30 minutes away by train. Here is the Rijksmuseum's list of Vermeer paintings not in the exhibition, with some interesting explanations. And non-explanations.

View of Delft, 1660-61, Mauritshuis; even in a place and time
over-run with fine landscape painters, this is regarded as among the
best; but he never did another landscape; the painting is 37x45
inches, Vermeer's largest, but too small for the sofa

Diana and Her Nymphs, 1655, Mauritshuis; brief mythological/
religious phase

Christ in the House of Mary and Martha, 1654-1655, National
Gallery, Scotland; "so there I was, with 5,000 hungry mouths to
feed...no telling what they'd been promised..."

The Procuress, 1655; Gemaldegalerie, Dresden, Germany;
definitely not mythological/religious

Girl Reading a Letter at an Open Window, 1657-1658;
Gemaldegalerie, Dresden; finally, he has settled on the
genre genre that he is known for; this is the one that was 
seen for 300 years as having a blank wall behind 
the girl; investigations in 1979 showed that someone
had over-painted the portrait of Cupid; much more
recently it has been shown that the over-painting could 
not have been done in Vermeer's lifetime...and so, in
the restoration, the Dresden museum also restored Cupid
and Vermeer's original intent
; Vicki, our expert on the
matter, felt the reappearance of Cupid was an
improvement

The Milkmaid, 1658-1659, Rijksmuseum; one has to wonder
what's really on the wall behind her

Crowded, for a ticketed, timed exhibition...

Officer and Laughing Girl, 1657-58, Frick, USA;
"so two Belgians walk into a bar, and..."

Young Woman with a Lute, 1662-1664; Metropolitan Museum
of Art, New York, USA; not his most attractive model

Woman Writing a Letter, with Her Maid, 1670-1672, National
Gallery, Ireland; or maybe just a grocery shopping list...

The Lacemaker, 1666-1668; Louvre, France

Girl with a Red Hat, 1664-1667, National Gallery, USA;
definitely tronie phase (look it up)

Mistress and Maid, 1664-1667, Frick, USA

A Lady Writing, 1664-1667, National Gallery, USA;
I think she's wearing a pearl earring too

Woman in Blue Reading a Letter, 1662-1664, Rijksmuseum

The Love Letter, 1669-1670, Rijksmuseum

Young Woman Seated at a Virginal, 1670-1672, National
Gallery, UK; the painting on the wall is of a prostitute
playing a lute, being offered a coin by the, um gentlemen;
Vermeer's day job was as an art dealer, so he knew this
stuff

Young Woman Standing at a Virginal, 1670-1672, National
Gallery, UK; Cupid is back

The Glass of Wine, 1659-1661, State Museum, Berlin, Germany

Girl Interrupted at Her Music, 1659-1661, Frick, USA

The Geographer, 1669, Stadel Museum, Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Woman with a Pearl Necklace, 1662-1664, State Museum of Berlin,
Germany

Allegory of the Catholic Faith, 1670-1674, 
Metropolitan Museum, New York, USA; a bit over
the top in all the symbolism, if you ask me; Vermeer
was born a Protestant in a Protestant country, but
married into a Catholic family, possibly for financial
reasons, but it is said he converted with sincerity; had
fifteen children (well, his wife did) in his short life

Woman Holding a Balance, 1662-1664, National Gallery, USA

Helpful line-up of all Vermeer's known paintings

Helpful life timeline

Helpful list of cooperating museums, the USA prominently
represented



Tuesday, May 2, 2023

Amsterdam Scenes, 2023

Way back in February Vicki had scored tickets to the impending Vermeer exhibition at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam--critics had described it as a "never before" and "never again" assemblage of the Delft master's works--and we shaved a few days off our spring Paris rental in order to make the pilgrimage. There was a second attraction, of course, Keukenhof, the annual Dutch floral extravaganza 10 miles from the city, which we'd seen and loved in 2016. A third was Amsterdam itself, a city we have visited and enjoyed many times since 1979. [Just search "Amsterdam" in the search box; or click on it in the label cloud]. And a fourth, although we did not know it at the time, was an opportunity to witness King's Day, sort of the Dutch version of Mardi Gras. Quite a spectacle. And then there were the Flemish fries, the stroopwafel, the genever, and other goodies, but we'll get to them en passant

The trip from Barcelona to Amsterdam was interesting: we had to vacate our Barcelona apartment by 11AM, but our flight did not depart for Amsterdam until nearly 8PM. Accordingly, we were forced to spend 6 hours in the Priority lounge at the airport. Happily, this afforded me the opportunity to sample any Spanish wines/beers/liquors I had somehow missed in the previous three weeks. Also some tapas

We eventually got to our hotel at Schiphol, about midway between Amsterdam and Keukenhof, and crashed. But the next day we took the Sprinter train into the city to walk around, mostly from the Rijksmuseum to the Central Station, enough to rekindle many fond memories. 

The Rijksmuseum

Canal scene


Tiny house; subsiding

At a contemporary art gallery

De gustibus...

Diminished flower market; note barges of bicycles...

The queue for our (still) favorite friteshuis, Vleminckx; we sampled
two others on this visit, neither nearly as good as Vleminckx...


It's a small place...

Next up, stroopwafel

Thus; not your airline stroopwafels; there were many
toppings available

And some shopping

And looking at the old architecture


Like the caganers in Spain, the rubber duckies in the Netherlands 
have grown from being a thing to being an industry





More architecture

Important government building/palace/museum/whatever we may have
once visited

Commercial passage more to our liking

Central Station

Good to be back in Amsterdam


Monday, May 1, 2023

Barcelona Out-Takes, 2

Never ever buy blankets from strangers...

Rare dorsal view of Casa Battlo

Rare frontal view of our apartment building; 
our apartment was the third up on the left corner

Peering into a jewelry artisan's studio in Bari Gotik

Done, sort of

Defective Medieval downspout; corrected via
Home Depot

Einstein flying low

Caganers again; when we first visited Spain, the
only caganers we saw were in nativity scenes...
now it's an industry, with few celebrities of any sort
escaping for long

A really big store, part of a chain...most tourist memories of Barcelona,
I speculate, now will be of the Sagrada Familia and of caganers










More extreme niche marketing...the mosquito
repellant store

Dagger-head lady making obscene gesture

Wandering tongue drummer?

According to lemon juice producers, it's supposed
to be 50/50

Another defective downspout...

Interesting government pronouncement

Ugliest building in Barcelona