Thursday, October 27, 2022

Vienna Food

Of the three cities we've visited this fall, we had our best overall food experiences in Vienna, eating out more than in Prague or Berlin, visiting a number of famous eating/drinking establishments, and finding some impressive food stores and markets. Several of these were addressed in previous posts...the Naschmarkt, Schweizerhaus at the Prater, Fuhrgassl-Huber heuriger...so I'll dwell on some other places and experiences here.

We had wiener schnitzel several times, both pork and veal, but
the best probably was at Fuhrgassl-Huber, near the Wienerwald



















Not processing this

Where the wild things are

BILLA is the large Austrian supermarket chain (now owned by
the German REWE); we shopped often at the BILLA around the
corner from our apartment; but over by the Anchor Clock one day
we happened into the BILLA Corso there, which is obviously the 
upscale version of BILLA; upscale not in the sense of pricing 
but rather in the range and variety of things sold...a gourmet's
paradise; I probably took a couple dozen pix, but will post here
just a few indicating the extent of the inventory; there were ample
"international" food sections, more and better than any other place
we've been; this is a part of the Mexican (!) section

There is no mustard shortage in Vienna, part one

Part two



































































































Truffles and truffly-type things

Two long shelves of capers

Some of the oils...not pictured: the two shelves of caviar in the
refrigerated section, the wonderful bakery, butchery, produce,
beer (they had Duvel!) and wine sections...and on and on; very
impressive

At Julius Meinl, the older, more traditional gourmet supermarket...
a 22 pound cake...€219

One of the tragedies of Viennese culture is that every night, after
closing, Demel throws away its unsold Sacher Tortes...


Always a line to get a table

We had dinner one night at Fischer Brau's bier garden; Vienna's
first brew pub, so to speak; the young brew-master let me in for a 
look and lengthy explanation...it's a small but popular operation

I can't believe I stuck my camera and head into this hot, steamy
mixture

Beer in pellet form...looks like rabbit pellets to me
Speaking of beer, the assembly line at Schweizerhaus, in the Prater

Always a line to get into the Cafe Sacher...driest chocolate cake
ever...

Trzesniewski's, a sandwich shop across from Hawelka's...

Trzesniewski's makes these little open-faced sandwiches...25
flavors...the beer mug is tiny, perhaps 100ml; the menu is the
postcard thing to the left
Back side of the menu: required allergy info

English menu from a "traditional" Austrian resto;
some interesting concoctions [click to enlarge]

Our downfall, however, was the Syrian baklava
bakery down the street from our apartment building...
pistachio sandwich in layers of filo, drenched in
honey...


Caryatids, Atlases, And Atlantines Of Vienna

Seen on our various walks in the inner city. Vienna certainly rivals, if not exceeds Prague, in this interesting and important respect. 







Mostly seen on neo-classical buildings, but occasionally on art nouveau
or art deco; or even rondo cubist...




Interesting how some are clearly straining, others just barely noticing
the weight




Don't know what to call them when they're mermen...with finned
legs...



One of the really good ones, just a block from the
Hundertwasserhaus





Most colossal of all



Rarely seen dorsal stance; designed by Caravaggio?

 

St. Ruprecht Church

It was supposed to be a day off, but, in order to get some steps, we walked up-river to St. Ruprecht's, said to be the oldest church in Vienna. As the church history says, it was damaged when a bomb hit the nearby Gestapo headquarters, but the oldest windows, stored in a depot, survived. They date from the early 14th century. Vienna was still but a town then, not the imperial capital.





Really old door

Helpful church history

Operative piece on the windows

Chancel and 14th century windows

Off the church's website
Contemporary windows


14th century pews built to last


Wednesday, October 26, 2022

Happy Austria National Day!

Happy Austria National Day! It's the 67th year of Austria's current nationhood, 2nd republic, since the post-WWII occupation. Businesses and stores are generally closed, but museums and recreational spaces are open. Alas, not the museums we were interested in. Most Austrians seem to celebrate by wearing the colors (red and white) and getting outside. It's an outside sort of country, even in Vienna.

We, on the other hand, stayed pretty much inside. The day was grey, cold, and wet: a good day to stay in and pack for our return to the States Friday. I did do a couple short walks. Tomorrow promises sunny, warmer temps, and we'll spend it venturing east past the Danube to some villages and heurigen on that side. In the meantime, Happy Austria National Day!  

"Our" local tram flying the colors




















A demonstration in the Prater; something about climate; lots of 
police around


















Someone celebrating but evidently not part of the
demonstration