The castle and its predecessors have about as long and convoluted history as any I know: neolithic settlements, Celtic hillfort, Roman fortress, on into the middle ages and beyond, when the present structure was built and then endlessly enlarged and strengthened. It stands at the crossroads of two of the most historically important human travel routes: the east/west Danube, all the way from Germany to the Black Sea, and the north/south Amber route, from the Baltic to the Adriatic. Thus it has always been contested ground, withstanding Mongols and Turks and many others, with a history to match. When the Hapsburgs took over, and particularly with Empress Maria Theresa, it became more of a palace and royal residence than a fortress.
Our estimable guide (Rickie Stevie) recommended climbing the hill to the castle for the views, but not for a tour of the castle/palace itself. We followed his recommendation, as we generally do, although, in our cases, it was very nearly a case of a castle too far. After taking in the views, we descended back to the town, had a nice pizza dinner, and then proceeded, already weary and pressed for time, to the Blue Church, across the Old Town.
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Beginning the climb, the cathedral there to the left, newer Bratislava in the distance |
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Old and new |
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Danube |
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Cathedral spire |
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With its replica of the Hungarian crown atop |
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Looking across the Danube to the miles after miles of apartment blocks |
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Capital buildings atop the hill |
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Helpful maps |
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Finally, a fuller view of the castle |
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Artsy shot of entry gates |
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Hi-Yo, Silver! |
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Oil refineries...a major target of the USAAF, June 18, 1944 |
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TV tower; I love these juxtapositions |