Saturday, June 4, 2022

Snowshill, 2022

We have not seen all the National Trust properties--probably only a hundred or so--but I think it's safe to say that Snowshill is the Trust's most unusual property. It is a very old (16th century origins) estate, mainly an un-modernized manor house filled with the collection of an early 20th century eccentric, Charles Wade. Wealthy eccentric, I should say, who lived in a simple cottage next to the manor house. He apparently fancied himself part of the arts and craft movement, and was particularly interested in anything hand-made. We visited the place in 2009, and were impressed. Wade's collecting was principled, documented, and thoughtfully arrayed. In 2009, the Trust did not permit photography at Snowshill. In 2022, however, photography was permitted, even encouraged. So my post today not only recounts as much of this hoard of 22,000 objects as 20+ pix can convey, it is also an exercise in revenge photography. If you're in the Cotswolds and in need of relief from the tour buses, Snowshill is highly recommended.

Model ships are all over the house, some, like this, quite large

Some striking furniture



One large room devoted to his collection of a couple dozen
Samurai outfits, 18th century Japan, both ceremonial and battle-
ready

Most of the costume collection is under preservation;
more that 2,000 outfits, spanning centuries, both
common and elite; Priestly visited in 1933, and wrote
that Wade's collection could outfit an entire grand
opera company

Of course, with a wardrobe like this, Wade loved
to dress-up and perform for his friends


He also collected models of houses, buildings, etc.


An 8 foot tall wind mobile

Half the bicycle and carriage room
Cobbling

Textiles

Mechanical play

A quarter of my favorite room, the musical
instrument room

A Serpent: bass wind band instrument, a type
dating from the Middle Ages 






















































































































It would be impossible to label all 20,000 objects in the house,
but there are knowledgeable docents in nearly every room, 
armed with catalogs such as above, the soprano woodwinds
page; in the collection are at least three oboes, three
hurdy-gurdies, and many instruments now forgotten by all but
specialists in music history
Masks and other exotica






Oil on panel, very old, provenance unknown...



Chipping Campden, 2022

We had a couple days left on the rental car before our London apartment rental commenced, and Vicki wanted to spend them seeing more bits of the Cotswolds. From our last visit we learned that there is far more to the Costwolds than the precious/pretty little towns touted in the guidebooks and the tour buses they attract. We'd visited Chipping Campden in 2013, and were impressed and decided to revisit it as well as the National Trust's Snowshill property nearby, before heading on to a cottage we had rented near Cirencester. The next day we would take in Cirencester, then Fairford and Bibury, and then lastly see Burford on the way to London. In each case, a four or five star parish church was the main attraction. But first, Chipping Campden, just a beautiful unpretentious Cotswold town...

Market hall, middle of main drag

Main drag


Typical

One of the more famous parish churches, four stars
according to Sir Simon Jenkins, author of the Best
1000 Parish Churches in England 

South porch, 13th century

Inside: note the arch over the chancel...typical of
Cotswold "wool" churches (the late medieval wool
trade was England's main export and source of 
wealth then; financed many of these churches)
















































































Windows in the arch

Now in the 14th century tower
15th century altar hangings; read the note...


17th century clock

The Chipping Campden Cope, c. 1380

Again, read the note...only surviving cope from
the period around 1400...

Someone sewed over the Popist imagery, thereby allowing
the cope to survive the Reformation...


Dovecote...garage...now what?

Thatched roofs here and there

Everyone loves Cotswold color

Gearing up for the big party


Friday, June 3, 2022

Chatsworth Gardens, 2022

The gardens were pretty much as we remembered them, though somewhat less impressive. Perhaps we were gardened-out. Or maybe it was too much rock. Anyhow, the most impressive part this visit was the model and display on Paxton's Great Conservatory, constructed at Chatsworth in the 1830s, demolished in the 1920s, the direct predecessor to the Crystal Palace, an engineering marvel for 1850.

Attempted improvement on a shot
I did in 2009, of Paxton's Emperor's
Fountain from the house

Viewing a bit of the lawn and Grillet's Cascade, also from the 
house

The Cascade; somehow we just couldn't face climbing
the hill this time

Looking back to the house


























































The Weeping Willow fountain






In Paxton's extensive rock garden; goes on for acres; the rocks
all hauled from elsewhere and placed carefully, piece by piece


More rock garden

Not all that many rhododendra

Flower gardens and maze where...

Paxton's Great Conservatory was located (helpful model)

The larger site of the Great Conservatory; 227 x 123 x 67 feet;
called The Great Stove because of its 8 boilers

About...and photo









































































































Victorian photo from Wikipedia; a visiting Charles Darwin wrote
that in the Great Conservatory's gardens, "art beats nature..." 
Among the tree-lined boulevards

Me shutting off the Emperor Fountain

But I turned it back on

Parthian shot of the Elizabethan deer hunting tower
from the foot of the Cascade