Wednesday, April 27, 2022

Baroque Walk

It was another long walking day, from the Esquiline to the Quirinal and then to the Piazza Popoli, and then, with a bus ride, back to Trastavere and a great dinner. And then back home. The first leg was from our apartment to the Fountain of Moses, then down the Via XX Septembre to the Quirinal, viewing several historic Baroque churches. Thus, a Baroque walk, from Rick Steve's Rome guide. Of course, much of Rome is Baroque, but this is a concentration within a few blocks.

The Fountain of Moses, late 16th century, to celebrate the opening
of an aqueduct; the architect's name was Fontana

Moses bringing water forth in the wilderness

Literally across the street, another favorite old
church, SM della Vittoria

Alas, it was closed; something about the ceiling
falling down; I would have risked it to see Bernini's
Ecstasy of St. Theresa one more time...

And across the street again, St. Susanna's...also closed, no notice
given...one of the earliest of the new Baroque style, built on the
foundations of much earlier paleo-Christian churches 

And now back across the street--it's an intersection with three
churches and a fountain--the church of St. Bernard; round so
as to fit the real estate left by the immense Baths of Diocletian

Modeled on the Pantheon, I suppose; niches and statues and
paintings everywhere (Baroque), though none of the biggies

Dome and oculus


Moving right along (we skipped the Metodista
church and the St. Andrew's Church of Scotland):
a side street, whereby you can see that Rome really
is sort of hilly...especially if you're on foot

Now we're at the intersection of the Via delle Quattro
Fontana and the Via del Quirinale--the Four Fountains
adorning the intersection; late 16th, mostly by Fontana;
the river Tiber

#2; the river Aniene

#3; the goddess Diana

#4; our set is complete; the goddess Juno

And right next door, the church of San Carlo alle
Quattro Fontana...Boromini's masterpiece...also
closed 

Finally, the church of St. Andrew alle Quirinale;
another very old church site; the present 16th
century building was designed to be the pope's
chapel (he was living on the Quirinal in those
days), by Bernini, who spared no expense in the
church's lavish interior
More theater design than church, some would say: but that was
Bernini; and the Baroque; religio-aesthetic shock and awe

Floor inlay under the dome

Dome, with St. Andrew about to pop up through the oculus to
heaven

Closer up: designed by Bernini but executed by assistants

Way over the top sort of place

And now we are at the Quirinal Piazza

Many government buildings, including the president's
home, offices

And a view of St. Peter's that might have been quite nice in the
16th and 17th centuries


Coliseum, 2022

As mentioned earlier, our tickets to the Forum included a visit to the mega-popular Coliseum. We had a good enough visit in 2011, but, hey, it was included. The number of visitors in the Coliseum is limited to 3,000 (70,000 back in the day), all masked inside, variably outside. It was quite a crush of people, and we stayed just long enough for a few pix.

As aforementioned

Artsy interior view without the throng

Otherwise

The Coliseum has 2000 years' worth of graffiti, some highlighted,
some just there; I was particularly pleased to see highlighted the
signature of Hubert Robert, 1760, noted French painter of
antiquities, both Italian and French

Interior throng

"The loudest boos come from the cheapest seats"
as Tom Landry once observed

Tailgating, c. 56 CE, as Vicki observed

"Nice kitty!"

The plan to rebuild St. Peters in the Coliseum was never approved

Playing field and east end zone

True to form, the Church has marked the spot where it is thought
the Emperor's box was

Parthian shot

Us, there

Tuesday, April 26, 2022

Church Of St. Peter In Chains

We finished the Forum well before our 4:55 timed ticket to the Coliseum, so, after a rest and a drink, we thought we might hike back up a bit of the Esquiline Hill to visit the church of St. Peter in Chains, another old favorite...but with an interesting surprise.

Another very old and historic church; one of the
earliest paleo-Christian churches [click to enlarge]

Standard basilica design

Near the entrance/exit, a fresco said to have been
painted during the 1476 plague (the big one was
in 1348)

Nave view; beautiful Doric columns

Depiction of Peter, in chains, visited by an angel; in
Jerusalem, not Rome; actually, there is no Biblical
nor other credible evidence that Peter ever was
in Rome
Tomb of Pope Julius II; sculpture by Michaelangelo
and assistants

Among others, Rachel, Rachel

And Moses, one of Michaelangelo's biggest
hits; the horny Moses...

As if a Michaelangelo sculpture on that scale were not enough,
here is the relic, the actual chains used to confine Peter; looks
like a grade #30 from Home Depot

Plunk a euro into the Divine Illumination Machine (DIM) and
the lights come on for better viewing and photography

Frescoed half dome above the altar 

Bare adjacent ceiling: "this space available," "your
message here"

So I am photographing the very old organ when
suddenly it begins playing...and I hear Vicki
excitedly calling to me...

She has found us something entirely new and 
different and interesting, a Divine Organismic Machine
...plunk down a euro and you get an historic musical
experience to go with all the rest...