Wednesday, July 11, 2018

Plitvice Lakes (And Waterfalls), 1

The Plitvice Lakes [and waterfalls] National Park is another of the region's many World Heritage Sites. Someday I hope to count up all the Unesco sites we have visited in these ten years...must be a couple hundred. Anyhow, the Plitvice Lakes, in Croatia, are sixteen lakes in the mountainous karst country, arranged in a sort of miles-long cascade, the falls often stunning, the colors of the waters, because of the limestone and the travertine--which forms dams and makes the waterfalls--breathtaking. The Croatian national park system has constructed a trail whereby you can walk some 9 km of the lakes and waterfalls (including a boat ride along the longest lake). We've seen some of the world's great waterfalls. Nothing could surpass Iguazu Falls in Argentina. But Plitvice is a solid second, affording a continuously impressive day hike, with comforts and amenities never too far apart.
We spent the preceding night still in Bosnia-Hertzegovina, at a campground by the
Hotel Ada, itself on a beautiful river setting



Sadly, there was much fighting in this area, the original hotel destroyed, the
new one making a struggle to come back; a beautiful setting

Now in Croatia, approaching Plitvice, a first glimpse of one of the falls

Helpful map, showing the lakes, the falls, the trail...

Alas, over much of the wetlands areas, the trail consisted of these rough planks;
not as bad as it looks, but not good for people with balance and knee issues




A calcifying tree...contributing to the travertine build-up

We found the trails well marked and easy to follow; you can
do the main trail either up or down...top to bottom is best,
saving the most dramatic sets of falls until last

In the upland areas, more conventional trails

Everything labeled...

More falls, another lake


Slippery when wet




A pretty incredible place...here at a midway point

Saturday, July 7, 2018

Caffe Tito

Out by the national historical museum is the Caffe Tito, a sort of beer garden themed around Yugoslavia's post-WWII dictator. We saw things like this, about Mao, in Beijing and in Chunking, in 2008 (maybe in was a chain?). They seemed like good clean nostalgic fun, and the Tito Cafe seemed similar. Though in the eastern bloc, Tito's Yugoslavia was no puppet of Moscow. Tito had ideas of creating a third bloc and was courted by all the world's leaders. We had a drink there and watched a bit more of the World Cup. Our visit to Sarajevo and Bosnia-Hertzegovina was over.





Kiddie playground adjoins the aging artillery display


Inside







Click to enlarge and squint and you'll see JFK and Tito


UN relief to Sarajevo during the siege included the inevitable
canned "meat," to which this monument pays "homage" 

Sarajevo, 3

And still more of Sarajevo...
Street scene


Eternal flame honoring Tito's partisans in WWII

Vienna?!



The B-H central bank


Sarajevo restaurateurs worked for 4 years to keep the McDonald's from opening,
fearing it would hurt their recovering businesses; turns out it's not that popular

Children's memorial: more than 1,500 children died in the siege

B-H president's residence

And another old mosque


























Today's wedding

Where the newer, post-war architecture begins

Sarajevo is in a long mountain valley; Serbian forces occupied the heights
encircling the city and pounded it relentlessly; in a clearing on this hill, Serbian
snipers killed patients in their beds in the local hospital

A large modern upscale shopping center

The city is a panoply of different sights, emotions


Government center


The former Holiday Inn, built originally for the Olympics, where war
correspondents hung out during the siege


National historical museum

Just for the record, we spent 3 nights at Oaza Camping in the suburb of Ilidza, a
long, rickety tram ride to the centro storico; despite the 5 stars, the campground
was a sodden mess mostly; the rain had been going on for days