Thursday, June 14, 2018

Malta, 1: Gozo

Why Malta, you may be wondering, especially for one's 50th anniversary? Well, we knew we'd be in the Mediterranean this May, June and July, and wanted some place we could enjoy, new to us, that would not require much more travel. We also wanted some place interesting, with some history, art, and architecture. But not so much as to detract from the main observation and celebration. Also some nice warm sunny weather. And so we hit upon Malta, in the middle of the Mediterranean, about midway between Sicily and North Africa, with history and culture from the paleolithic and neolithic through the Phoenicians, the Carthagenians, the Greeks, the Romans, the Arabs, the Normans, the Spanish, the Knights of Malta, the French, and, until the 1960s, the British. Maltese itself is an Arabic language, although written in the Roman alphabet, and it makes for some interesting words and signage. Fortunately, the place is bi-lingual and everyone speaks English. Malta is a popular Mediterranean resort, 3 hours from London, with all the amenities, and then some, drawing all sorts of nationalities, and especially young people. You can spend all your time at the beach or shopping, or in the clubs and casinos, if you like. Other than enjoying a week of 4- and 5-star luxury, we mostly did the towns, the museums, and the archaeological sites.

The population, approaching half a million, is divided unequally between the two larger islands, Gozo, the smaller, more tranquil, and Malta, the big island, with its capital of Valetta, and, surprisingly, much industry. We spent three nights on Gozo and then five more at St. Julian's, on Malta island.
We flew into Malta on Alitalia, took the bus to the ferry port, and then the Gozo
Channel Ferry to Mgarr, Gozo's port

Approaching Gozo; only a mile or two separate the two islands; both islands
are limestone wonderlands, great sea cliffs and other such features; more on
the limestone, which really defines the place, in due course

A sea cave, one of many, on Gozo; in one such cave Calypso captivated
Odysseus for seven years

Mgarr harbor, our home for three days; our hotel was the Grand Hotel Gozo,
over on the right

View from our suite






























































































Speaking of which, through some confusion, this was the only picture we took
of our very nice and ample room; we spent way too much time re-acquainting
ourselves with television, especially the Travel Channel





















Another view from our room

Dinner that evening at the nearby Country Terrace restaurant;
baked brie, asparagus, prosciutto...


Pork and veal dishes

Among the peculiarities of Malta is the night-time architectural illumination
provided by some 87 gazillion incandescent bulbs; more anon

The abundant creamy limestone means that nearly all the
structures, from 4,000 BC to the present, are of creamy
limestone; note particularly the enclosed balconies, another
of Malta's interesting features; on residences, they are very
nearly universal

We took the bus--Malta has a superb public transportation
system--into Victoria, Gozo's capital and principal city; here
is the theatre/opera house, where La Traviata was being
produced

Gozo is also the cathedral city for the island; note the bishop's reserved parking
place here, being sacrilegiously violated

City square

An amazing cafe, where we had breakfast
























Decorated in old posters and other items


















The most astounding of which was this, a poster announcing
the EUR, the Exposition Universale Roma, the world's fair,
which was to be held in 1942, in Rome; the exposition
never occurred--Mussolini's bungling troops were busy
bring rescued by Rommel in North Africa--but the nice
southern EUR suburbs are still there, and we see them
every time we take the Metro from Laurentina into The
City; Malta itself was being bombed to smithereens in
1942, by the Italians and German; more anon


Gozo is noted for its relative tranquility; here's an alley
scene in Victoria; you wouldn't see a scene like this in
Valetta, on the big island

Another feature of the place is its religiosity, 99% of which
is Roman Catholic; lots and lots of shrines and creamy
limestone churches


Personally, I think Gozo could help itself touristically by changing its name;
Gozo sounds too close to Bozo (of clown fame); I propose it be called Geauzeau

More of the incandescent light bulb thing; and the
religiosity thing

Creamy limestone church on the square

Interesting shopping; the cups mirror the saucers

What with the Mediterranean climate and the limestone, Malta has plenty of
vineyards and its own brands, one of which has a whole line of "Caravaggio"
wines; he did some time here trying to become a Knight of Malta and indeed
left a couple paintings behind (no pun intended)

Speaking of which...a plaque from the Knights in our hotel at Mgarr

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Interim Update

From June 3rd to June 11th we were in Malta, celebrating our 50th wedding anniversary and enjoying the sights and sounds and tastes of these islands in the middle of the middle sea, with their almost unimaginably remote history and later ages of endurance. Mostly we just enjoyed a little luxury and didn't push ourselves on the touristic front. Nevertheless, there will be a dozen or so blog posts from Malta and Gozo, and it will take me some time to sort through the hundreds of pix from this magical holiday. Meanwhile, we are back in Rome for a few days before heading north....
June 8th, 1968

Sunday, June 10, 2018

2 1/2, Part The Second

Our day in Rome continued...see previous post for explanation...
St. Mary Maggiore, one of the four papal churches, 4th
century, updated now and then


Inside; sort of like St. Paul Without the Walls, though not nearly so immense

Holy Crib of JHC

I like Mary Maggie, even with its far away, nearly invisible
and poorly lit mosaics; Vicki is not so keen

Central apse half dome: "Atta' girl, Mom!"

"Two...four...six...eight...time to transubstantiate!"


Love the feather dancers and the Evil Eye

Probably rather old tower...just walking around

Through the ruins of Trajan's Baths


Resting in a pretty piazza




































Interestingly named

Near the colossal building

Vicki's pizza at Naumachia; I had the usual Napoli

The accursed San Clemente

Street scene

Nice old palazzos/hotels all around

Tropical habit

On a nearly invisible outside porch of Mary Maggie, a
presumably very old Pantokrator

2 1/2, Part The First

After the Amalfi trip and another administrative day in Pompei, we decided our stay on the Bay of Naples was complete for this year. We had already seen Capri twice and didn't need another boat ride. So we drove back to Rome, and, after greeting Alessandro and Giovanni, parked again at the Emerald Meadow, where we would prepare and pack for our upcoming vacation to Malta, to spend eight days there celebrating our 50th wedding anniversary. The packing went so quickly (8kg pp), we decided to spend another day in the Eternal City. Happily, Rome is so filled with things to see and do, we had no trouble picking out a couple more churches to visit. One was Santa Prassede, a ninth century minor basilica known for its Carolingian era mosaics. The other was the Basilica San Clemente, known for various things but attractive to us for its Masolino/Masaccio chapel frescoes and especially its sub-crypt Temple of Mithra. The visit to San Clemente was only half successful--no fotos, a ridiculous admission fee, plus a nasty-looking guard/bouncer prowling the place hoping to nail foto perps like me--so we looked at the nice Masolino.Masaccio, mostly Masolino, and moved on. Fortunately, St. Mary Maggiore was nearby, and we popped in there for a quick re-visit, bringing the total for the day to 2.5. Hopefully, Fellini would approve. Plus we had a very decent lunch at Ristorante Naumachia, near the San Clemente church. [NB: in 2019 we returned to San Clemente and had a great time...recounted here]
Entrance to San Prassede, which is fairly well embedded in
the city-scape


























In English, too; click to enlarge


Apse mosaics, 9th century

With Divine Illumination Machine (DIM) on

Now in the Chapel of Zeno, looking up

And around


Shopping bags?

Major relic: the column of the flagellation of Jesus Christ;
really more of a stump than a column

As attested to in the painting; Vicki thinks Christians in Rome got really taken
on this relic and had the painting depicts their prize, rather than all the other
different depictions

Beautiful stuff, the mosaics

Baby J seems to be glowering at me...hmmmm...



The square white halo means (s)he is still living; ask me anything you want to
know about iconographics...

Nice paintings also in this very old 9th century church



Divine Illumination Machine (DIM)