Friday, June 1, 2018

Paolo Orsi Museum, 2018

We visited the Paolo Orsi in 2011 and were impressed, not merely with the collection, but with Orsi himself, the turn-of-the-century native archaeologist who unearthed and interpreted much of Sicily's past, and especially its more remote past. Not many museum's are named for archaeologists. Not many museums are so indebted to one person.
Alas, walking from the marina to the museum we passed
this, the "Basilica" Madonna della Lacrime, which now
dominates Syracuse's skyline
Syracuse has endured 2,700 years as a city, but this
architectural obscenity (neo-teepee?) may be its greatest
challenge
Fortunately you can look the other way at the blossoming jacarandas

We were joined at the museum by several high school classes;
mostly they're on their phones or with each other, barely noticing
what is before them, passing quickly from room to room; same here
as in all the other countries we have visited; except France; oh, in the
foreground are skeletons of (fully-grown) hobbit elephants that once 
roamed Sicily

The paleolithic stuff is incredible...5th to 6th millennium before
JHC, some of it


Hopefully made someone very happy, 6-8 thousand years ago


Strainer?

Use still unkown

Door slab; not hard to figure out; but what was it a door to?
Sex education classroom?

Alas, the Orsi has some roofing leakage problems...


More odd and poorly understood vessels

Arrival of bronze age, iron age

Some beautiful Greek stuff, of course

Gorgon fragment

Votive offering casts

Great educational displays; in English too

Google Earth view of Syracuse, Ortigia pretty clearly in view

Very well preserved Christian sarcophagus

Writing on the lines now

Lamps for Syracuse's extensive catacombs

Nice Anne Boleyn sculpture; 2nd century copy of Greek
4th century bronze; wait, no...

Hobbit-sized satyr/telamon

Toga! Toga!

More sculpture, sarcophagi, on the beautiful grounds

Siracusa: Ortigia, 2

Continuing our walk around Syracuse's Ortigia island...
How can you go wrong?

Executive summary: river god, Alpheus, takes a liking to nymph, Arethusa,
and chases her; just as he is about to get her, she appeals to her patron goddess,
Diana, who transforms her into a beautiful seaside spring

The spring: it's rather special when myth and an actual place coincide; another
instance of this, for us, was the Chimaera, in Turkey; but this is not merely myth, 
it is a story from Ovid's Metamorphoses; Vicki had a course on it in college...

Contemporary rendition

Celebrating Ovid's revival of Greek poetic meter in the Metamorphoses

Mediterranean color

Another street scene

Sicily is heavily into recycling; here, a cleverly disguised row of bins

Fortress

San Sebastian, patron saint of archers

Huh?

Off an alley...cleaning and de-bearding mussels

Fixer-upper

At the market...irresistible ground pistachios

Delicious but unidentified berries the ladies in Noto had
fed us...like honey in a berry

Our encampment at the marina in Syracuse

Neighbor

The view


Return To Our All-Time Favorite Doric/Baroque Temple/Cathedral, 2018

Still on our walk around Ortigia. We visited Siricusa's cathedral in 2011, and were knocked out by this Baroque cathedral plopped down undisguisedly on a 5th century BC Doric temple. It is amazing, and we have seen very few things to compare. Maybe the Mezquita, in its way. Usually, triumphant religions/regimes destroy all traces of predecessors and competitors. Not this time. It's one of those things that warrants revisiting. And I hope to see it again.
Exterior, approaching the Piazza Minerva; the Doric columns
are plainly visible

Piazza Minerva



















Facade of the cathedral


West entry; OK, these columns are not Doric; but on the
other side...
Nave: what was the cella of the Doric temple


On the south aisle, huge, fluted Doric columns



West end: the Christians simply turned things around, making
the head of the Greek temple now the end, the cella the nave,
adding an apse at the entry to the Greek temple; and bricking
the whole thing up...

South aisle



Font said to be part of the original temple



Back out on the piazza, heading for the next church and Caravaggio's
Deposition of St. Lucia


Parthian shot, which I couldn't resist; of all Italian sites, except possibly the
Sistine Chapel, this is the most fiercely patrolled: "NO FOTOS!" It is also the
origin of my theory of Caravaggio's butt-centric aesthetics