Lunch At Porto's Cafe Majestic

It was lunch-time, we were hungry, I wanted to try Porto's decadent francesinha sandwich, and the Majestic Cafe, the city's best belle epoch cafe was nearby. Plus, the Amorino's was just down the street. Unbeatable combination.

1923 newspaper review of the new Majestic Cafe

Loved the "obstinate aged listlessly passing the time away" bit

We shared an order of the francesinha with frites

Agreed, it looks like it might be a caramel flan...however, what's in there is...
a foundation of Texas toast, a layer of sliced steak, a layer of sausage, a layer
of ham, all slathered in melted white cheese, then launched into a sea of
tomato/peppery secret sauce; perhaps the original heart attack on a plate; another
"once in a lifetime experience," we agreed

But the decor was great

Tooled leather bench seating throughout

On, we waddled, to dessert at Amorino's

Porto Scenes, 1

We had a fine first day in Porto, Portugal's 2nd largest city. Greater Porto is built on the steep slopes descending to near the mouth of the Douro. On the south side is the city of Gaia, where the port (wine) warehouses lay, at the bottom. Porto proper is on the north side, with the oldest neighborhood, the Ribeira, on the river. One gets the impression that in Porto there are no real directions apart from up and down. We spent our first day in upper Porto. The campground attendant had wisely advised us to take the bus, #906, all the way to the end of the line, Trindade, at the top, and work our way down to the river. Not up. This is what we did, although we got only as far down as the Bento train station, with its incredible azulejos (later post).

Just off the bus, looking down the Placa da Libertade; beautiful buildings, much
construction and reconstruction; typical

Now in the Mercado do Bolhao

Interesting; seen bettter; mostly cheap cheap tourist crap, port samplers

In the garlic department

Out on the street, interesting architecture

Street scene; note Amorino's on left: dessert!

Art nuevo here and there (see next post)

Another street scene, beautiful Friday afternoon

Art deco too

Jacarandas working over-time here too

Lurking behind the trees, the best art deco McDonald's ever,
so far

At the bottom of the Placa Libertade

Looking toward the Clerigo church and tower; no, we did not
climb the tower; this was after lunch (next post)...

Plaza da Libertade again

Even in the upper town, beautiful old buildings all around

Getting Juiced On Mateus And Hanging Loose*

If you're of a certain vintage, that is, Baby Boomer, you may recall Mateus, a rose' popular in the 60s and 70s which was the introduction to wine for many of us in that generation (I preferred the cheaper sweet whites from upstate NY). A candle burning in a Mateus bottle is a great 60s image. Although Mateus is not nearly what it was then, the chateau (casa) Mateus was just on the other side of the hill (an hour's drive), and I thought it would be a fun visit and tour and maybe tasting. For old time's sake. Sort of.

But when we got there we found that parking was 8.50E, admission 12.50E (and
no discount for Boomers), the garden 4.50E, and a single tasting, 4.00E; I think
I have been to many of the great vineyards/breweries/distilleries in Europe but
never have I felt as prospectively ripped-off (60s term) as here; we had lunch in
the camper and drove on

Later, at a Continente in Porto, I bought a bottle of Mateus
(for old times' sake) and an accompanying 187ml bottle (an
offerta), all for 2.68E

*Not. But the line is from Elton John, 1973.

On The Douro

The Douro is a great river, extending from the Atlantic all the way back well into Spain. It is also Portugal's answer to Germany's Rhine (and Moselle, etc.) providing grapes, vineyards, castles, and river cruises to those so inclined. Instead of Riesling, you get Port, great port. From Trancoso, we drove to Lamego and its fine riverside aire de camping-cars (under three bridges; 3 euros, including electricity). Next day, we drove up one of the tributaries to Vila Real to see the Casa Mateus (next post), then back to Lamego and, on the Douro a bit, all the way to Porto and a campground there on the ocean (another post). All this was May 31st/June 1st, for those of you keeping score at home.

Note sleek 21st century bridge surmounting Romanesque bridge

Railroad bridge (no traffic)

From the aire

Portugal's answer to the Veterano bull...

The ruby is great (for those of us with
extreme sweet teeth)

Camping by the Douro

Every hill and mountain is terraced and planted from river to
summit

OK, so we have driven hundreds (thousands) of miles
(kilometers) on the Iberian peninsula, seeing nothing but
buildings that are white with tiled roofs; everywhere; nothing
but; and then here, on a tributary of the Douro, this little
neighborhood of color pops up, then fades away; Vicki suggests
they probably had to drive to France to buy the paint

Fade to white

Interesting non-Incan terracing

The Douro, downstream from Lamego; great river

It was, alas, a day of extraordinary haze

And the demands of the ridiculous road kept me from getting
pix of any of the river cruise ships

Incredibly steep all around; we can hardly believe there is a
mechanized harvest here