Saturday, May 13, 2017

Cordoba's Mezquita, 2017

Cordoba's great mosque arose in the 9th and 10th centuries. After 711, Muslims and Christians shared the Visigothic cathedral that stood on the site, but later the Moors purchased the Christian half and permitted the cathedral to be moved elsewhere. The mosque is simply one of the world's great religious buildings, by age, size, and historical significance. It is, of course, a cathedral now, with a "proper" cathedral built smack right into the middle of the enormous old building (I quite agree with Charles V's remark to the builders that "you have taken something that is unique in all the world and rendered it something that can be seen in any city" (or something like that)). Previous posts on the Mezquita include enough of the Christian parts, so, here, I'll focus on mainly the Moorish parts and some of the contrasts. FWIW, Muslims are allowed to visit the Mezquita but not to pray in it. By order of the Vatican, no less. Anyhow, my previous blog posts on the Mezquita, with possibly different pix, are:

Although it is amply ornamented, there are not too many pix of
the Mezquita on the outside; unlike a cathedral, it is just a 4-story
high stone building, a rectangle, about the size of a very large city
block

Us there, third time

The double arch thing permits greater ceiling height; sort of
reminds of certain Roman aqueducts

As with any thousand-year-old building, there is a mixture, a
multiplicity of styles

Ever since Cuzco, we have been noticing what's on the menu;
here, definitely, tapas!

Earlier 20th century, definitely a fixer-upper

A forest of columns...so it is usually described...856 of them,
some from the Visigothic cathedral, most from Roman sites
all over Spain; note particularly the red and pink marble
columns


The Mihrab

Its dome


Every imaginable kind of vaulting

Love those double arches

On our first visit, in 2010, we nearly had the place to ourselves;
it was a bit more crowded in 2013; in 2017, it was really
crowded (big weekend in Cordoba); but I still got the goose
bumps I often get in structures like this


In the oldest part (the Mezquita was enlarged
twice before the Reconquista), a deteriorating
column, now behind glass

Other, beautiful, older columns


Variety of vaulting; most barrel-, some coffered



Christian capitals, no doubt

Really tied things together; see Inca_
Garcilaso_de_la_Vega


Always my ecumenical parthian shot at the Mezquita

















Except this time, finally, we engaged in a Cordoban tradition,
stopping at the Casa Santos, outside the exit

And shared a tortilla de patata

Solid potato cake, somehow bonded together by calorie
molecules and possibly traces of egg; tasty, though, especially
washed down by an iced vino tinto


Friday, May 12, 2017

Cordoba Scenes, 2017, 2

Two sites of particular interest the city of Cordoba offers for free or very little cost, the synagogue, one of Europe's oldest, beautifully preserved/reconstructed after so many centuries; and the remains of the Moorish baths, not far from the Mezquita...






 
Helpful model of baths

11th century skylight in the baths








Cordoba Scenes, 2017, 1

This is our third visit to Cordoba and to the Mezquita, the medieval mosque there that is one of the wonders of the world. After Madinat al-Zahar, we found a camping aire just down the road, in the valley, a place interestingly named Peter Pan Higueron. It's a restaurant in the hamlet of El Higueron, with parking space for 50 or more RVs, dump, water, etc. 7 euros a night. There were half a dozen rigs there when we pulled in the afternoon of May 5. As the weekend really got underway, I counted 47 rigs, many of them small groups traveling together, nearly all from Espana. We stayed at Peter Pan 3 nights, touring Cordoba, and then a rest day. Previous Cordoba/Mezquita blog posts are:
http://roadeveron.blogspot.com.es/2010/01/mezquita-part-four-moorish-bits.html

Panning around the parking lot Saturday afternoon
Meanwhile, back in beautiful Cordoba, some street scenes



Really tied tings together



Why Europeans are such good drivers



It was explained to me later that they can't see gray


In an apartment parking garage