Thursday, February 2, 2017

Cueva De Las Manos, 2

Continuing our tour of the great Cave of Hands...Jan 28
Moving on from one enclosure to the next

Dots...so familiar from European sites


I have always wondered whether six-fingered people have trouble
with base 10 math



Pepperoni pizza

More abstractness as you proceed left




The Dancer...muy famoso...the hands at the right are playing
a keyboard

This is thought to depict a guanaco hunt, the topography on
the stone depicting...

That of the canyon directly facing

Moon phases?

Interesting over-painting

Humans surrounding the guanaco for the kill




Incredible place...what a day!

Cueva De Las Manos, 1

Students of this blog know that we are fans of archaic rock paintings, having visited Lascaux, Pech Merle, Alta Mira, Cueva de la Pileta, the Grotto of Niaux, Chauvet, Font du Gaume, and most recently, Pont D'Arch in the Ardeche. Although the Cave of Hands is much younger than the great European sites, its extensiveness and variety make it of no less interest. C14 datings here suggest habitation from 13,000BC to around 700AD, with the paintings mostly done between 9,000BC and 3,000BC. (The stencils are done by blowing pigment through bone pipes...the bones providing the datable material). I had always thought Cave of Hands was a single wall panel, but it is rather a number of panels spread across several enclosures on the side of the canyon wall. 800 hands, give or take, plus a lot of guanacos, and even a few humans. Jan. 28.
A World Heritage Site, of course

Your walk a few hundred meters, and then you see them

Thus


The panels go on and on; here mostly guanacos

Of the 800 hands, only 30 are of right hands

Even where the rocks have tumbled down, there are paintings

The formal tour lasts about an hour, is done in both Spanish
and in English, too; the guides very knowledgeable; there is
also such signage as the above, and a museum in the visitor
center; in English, too


Note hands in green atop

Ambidextrous? One of the few right hands depicted

Thought to be some sort of map

Nursing guanaco


The one actual cave; the rest in overhung enclosures

Note double-jointed wrist


Hunting guanaco best done during full moon

Hard-hat zone

Name that creature

Another right hand

Us, there; incredible place

Trekking Pinturas Canyon To The Cave Of Hands

After some miles on the barest track, our van pulled up at a spot overlooking the canyon. Claudio had already explained that we had the option of doing the 5k "trek" or could simply ride on to the Cave of Hands in the van. Vicki wisely opted for the latter. The descent into the canyon was steep and covered in sand and gravel. Not good for an alumna of the Center for Total Joint Replacement. I carried on, failing to realize that a decent into the canyon likely meant an ascent out of it. But it was a great hike. Jan. 28.
Overlooking Pinturas Canyon

As the trail descends, the van departs

The canyon

A thyme bush

Below, a small herd of guanaco crosses the canyon floor (click
to enlarge)

We press on

Watched closely by the vultures

On the canyon floor, a habitation traditionally occupied by just
one gaucho; the whole empanada is being returned to nature
prior to joining the national park

Darwin's rose, someone said; but it doesn't look like a rose...?

Survival of the nastiest: a pine cone with thorns...nasty ones

Not messing with this

A solitary hiker in the canyon; turns out she was an English
teacher in a private elementary school in Puerto Varas, headed 
for the same cave tour we were on

Canyon outwash

A guanaco footprint

Calafate berries (box leaf barberry); eat one, they say, and you
will return to Patagonia; they look and taste a bit like
blueberries (never mind the nasty thistles); a bit; they are
loaded with seeds; if you return to Patagonia, it will not be
to eat more calafate berries

A whole nasty bush of them

Returning to nature

Thistle and butterfly

Basic signage

Rio Pinturas

Fish and canyon walls



In the distance, the Cave of Hands

The whole complex...visitor center on right

A group on the catwalk by the paintings

Huffing and puffing,, I am the last to emerge from the canyon
and to join the tour