Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Le Havre's Andre Malraux Museum of Modern Art

The MuMa is the largest collection of Impressionist works in France, outside Paris. Michelin takes scant notice of it, doesn't get its name right, but then gives it two stars. Go figure. We spent a few hours there and were quite impressed. Anything named for Malraux should be superb. Just a smidgeon of the wonderful collection follows...
Striking building, right on the harbor, calculated to make the
best use of the light so studied by the Impressionists
Entrance
































The light is great, and you can get this close to some of Monet's
Water Lilies and other master works

















A Pissaro, something about the harbor at Le Havre, rising tide
















Monet, Seashore at Fecamp
















Monet, Winter Sun, Lavacourt
















Pissaro, Apple Trees and Poplars at Sunset, Ergny
















Sisley, The Seine at Point-du-Jour
















Paul Gaugin, Landscape at Te Vaa
















A whole wall of cow studies by Boudin
















Another whole wall of Boudin, some studies, some finished
works of a master

















Like this Woman in White on Trouville Beach, 1869
















Or Cliffs at Etretat
















Or The Harbor at Honfleur
















Or The Bassin de Commerce we saw before
















Lacoste's Snowy Landscape in Paris

















One of several Courbet's, Landscape at Ornan




















Seashore at Palavas
















The Wave
















Renoir's Portrait of Nini Lopez




















Monet's The Seine at Vertheuil
















Renoir, The Pines in Cagnes
















And mixed in with all the others, Fantin-Latours,
a few Delacroix, and more, is this Ribera's San
Sebastian; great museum, only a hundred miles
from Paris! No crowds!

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Le Havre's Eglise St. Joseph

The Church of St. Joseph was built between 1951 and 1957, and, as Michelin says, is typical of Auguste Perret's style. Sober and reinforced concrete. The interior is "monumental and impressive." Two stars, even. TripAdvisor gives it a certificate of excellence and 4 and a half things. No comparison with Gaudi's Familia Sangria, IMHO, but still of interest. At least it's finished and definitely in accord with the Master's wishes. Vicki says the interior is awesome.
The tower is visible all over town




















The crossing, as it were, or perhaps the elevation
















Up closer
















Panning around, sort of




















The seats were very comfortable, Vicki noted
















Altar
















More elevation




















Up closer for different colors
















Pulpit
















Organ
















Parthian shot




















Architectural/theological statement (click to enlarge)

















Le Havre

After Etretat we drove on a few miles to another free aire, atop the cliffs, at Saint Jouin Bruneval. Next morning, we drove the dozen or so miles on into Le Havre, France's 2nd largest port city, and easily found the harbor aire de camping-cars there. We spent the day walking Le Havre, visiting the St. Joseph Church, and the Andre Malraux Museum of Modern Art (the MUMA). Le Havre is very similar to Rotterdam, in that its central, old city was destroyed in WWII, and rebuilt along very modern lines. In the case of Le Havre, however, it was the Allies who did most of the destruction, driving the Germans from the port. The Germans, for their part, did as much as they could to destroy the port. And, in the case of Le Havre, a single architect, Auguste Perret, was hired to rebuild the central core. A devotee of straight lines, right angles, balance and harmony, and also reinforced concrete, his work won Le Havre a World Heritage Site award for its post-WWII reconstruction. Le Havre is in any case a relatively young European city, having been founded by Francois Premier in the early 1500s, after Harfleur had silted up.
A neighbor at Saint Jouin Bruneval
















The aire in Le Havre; everything within walking distance
















Possibly the ugliest church we have seen, the 16th-17th century Cathedrale Notre
Dame; so dark inside none of my pix worked; organ donated by Cardinal
Richelieu; I think they rebuilt this so the reinforced concrete would look good



















Nicely covered arcades along the Avenue de Paris
















War monument at the Place General de Gaulle




















Famous place, the Bassin de Commerce
















Monet was from Le Havre, and his Impression, Sunrise, was painted from about this
spot; above is a similar painting by Eugene Boudin, also a local boy; we saw a lot of
Boudin at the MUMA and liked what we saw


















Part of a business/multimedia block; the Havrais call it "the volcano"

















Right at ground zero now, noticing all the symmetry and right angles and
reinforced concrete

















Thus
















The Mairie, or was it the Hotel de Ville; getting all dressed up because today is
July 13...

















World Heritage Site; very few of these are given for contemporary stuff

















The usual, um, interesting public sculpture
















Walking through the beautiful St. Roch park
















What Le Havre looked like in 1944-45









More apartment blocks, more symmetry
















This city's literary walks...promenade litteraire
















Nice touch




















Ships parked out in the Channel, awaiting their turn
















Ferris wheel at the plage
















Skate park
















Part of the Residence de France; more gigantic apartment blocks; but actually
quite nice and affluent-looking

















And each one named after a different region of France
















On Avenue Clemenceau opposite the plage, a
few pre-WWII beauties that survived





















Ditto

Etretat, 2015

We visited Etretat in 2013, on Rachel's advice, and liked it enough to visit again in 2015. (http://roadeveron.blogspot.fr/2013/05/etretat.html). It was a rainy Sunday afternoon, and the place was packed as usual, but the sun came out about 4PM, and we walked into town and up the north cliff to the little chapel.
Despite what you may have heard from Saxons,
Normans have a great sense of humor





















Thus















Looking south along the beach
















And north
















And south, as we got higher
















And north
















The little chapel, St. Mary of the Pillboxes
















Thus















See below




















Thus
















Expensive pebbles!