Tuesday, August 5, 2014

St. Germain-en-Laye: le musee d'Archeologie nationale, 2

Continuing our tour of the National Archeological Museum at St. Germain-en-Laye...
Nice metal weapons and such, and molds















But it is the Celtic gold work that is a knock-out...various
torcs...
















Thus















Closer up















Golden cone, half a meter high




















More fine gold work















Gallic helmet















More gold















Glass bracelets















Gallic coins















Gallo-Roman floor mosaic















Detail















Gallo-Roman glass

St. Germain-en-Laye: le musee d'Archeologie nationale, 1

We first visited the National Museum of Archaeology in 1989. France has many archaeological museums, dispersed throughout the country and generally associated with specific sites, standing stones, dolmens, caves and their art, and so on. There are many such sites in the UK, and Ireland, excellent ones, and some also in Spain and Portugal. But it is difficult to imagine a place with a greater concentration and diversity of paleolithic and neolithic sites than France. The National Museum at St. Germain-en-Laye is a kind of national compendium, covering the paleolithic up to Gaul and the Romans. It is has one surpassing treasure, IMHO, and we'll get to that below.
Older paleolithic tools and a couple of Neantherthal skulls















Figurines...30,000 year old artifacts...




















Female figurines...obviously influenced by
Rubens





















And the surpassing treasure...the Dame a la capuche...carved
from mammoth  ivory, found in the Grotto de Pape a
Brassempouy; Gravettian, about 25,000 years old, give or
take...the Mona Lisa of the paleolithic, one might say,
although I think that gives way too much credit to the
Giaconda


















Another view

















Closer up artsy view (from a poster at the
musee)





















More fine carving




















Ditto




















Ditto again




















And again




















And a large relief, similar to many we have seen in the south
west of France
















And now, presto, fast-forward a dozen millennia or so, and
we are in the neolithic period, looking at beautiful ceremonial
hand axes, of jade, from Brittany; I still hope to find one on
Carnac plage...


















Jade bracelets and necklaces




















Neolithic pottery















And carved standing stone, also from Brittany




















And now, shazzam! we are in the iron age, Gauls and Celts
and such

Thursday, July 31, 2014

St. Germain-en-Laye: le chateau

Kim and Dave departed Monday morning. Noting we had only four days left of our visit in Paris, we studied our to-do/see list, prioritized, and took the RER out to St. Germain-en-Laye and the royal chateau there, which houses the National Archaeology Museum. It's been many months since we had a good paleolithic or neolithic experience. The chateau was built in the 12th-13th centuries, mainly by Louis IX. Perhaps the most remarkable part, and the only part remaining of the high Medieval castle not scourged by the Black Prince, is its chapel, by Pierre de Montreuil, which pre-figures the latter's Saint-Chapelle in Paris. One look at it and you figure it was the same architect and the same purpose as Saint-Chapelle. The Crown of Thorns was delivered here and resided here until Saint-Chapelle could be completed. The windows at St. Germain-en-Laye are gone, but it's still a rayonnant wonder. The rest of the castle was rebuilt in the 1360s. Oh yes, the chateau at St. Germain-en-Laye was an official haven for Jacobites in the late 17th century, and James II is buried in the town. Alas, we did not see much of St. Germain-en-Laye, the town, which looked very appealing.


























































































































































































Sunday, July 27, 2014

Les fontaines du Château de Versailles

Vicki had wanted to see the fountains at play, so we met Dave and Kim at Versailles Saturday afternoon after they had toured the big house, and enjoyed the water show together. Nowadays, they do the fountains four times a week, including a night show.
The Eiffel Tower from the Javal Metro, where we had to go
to get the RER to Versailles (construction closures)
















Vicki and I skipped the Chateau this time















And concentrated on the gardens and fountains















We had never seen the Mirror Fountain before--clearly the
star of all the scores of fountains at Versailles...videos (but
of course you have to see the videos) are at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKxlddHdM6c and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74DBQD6XCvs
















Interesting Dying Gaul at Versailles















Looking toward the Grand Canal















Apollo's Grotto; all kinds of Apollo stuff at Versailles...the
Sun King was fond of the Sun God
















Up closer















Our party















Assorted other fountains















Ditto















The ever-popular Encelades















Great topiary















Great gardens, great place...plus, it makes you feel so good
about revolution and regicide
















A final geyser




















And the crowd-pleasing Neptune Fountain finale