Monday, August 13, 2012

Perouges Curiosities

In a restaurant on the main square...keeps vampires away?














Santiago came this way too


















Get your Route 66 sign here


















Hanging bucket, another Medieval practice
still not well understood, at least by me



















(Non-Medieval) Nuclear reactors, never very far away in
France















Medieval doggie-door? Nearly every house
had one, usually bricked-up behind the door



















Cobble-stone paving everywhere; and every now and then
a stone with an apparent lens in it; another mystery; the TI
was, of course, closed
















No mystery here; the galettes were wonderful














Medieval door-bell?


















The nails spell poete on the right; couldn't make out the left;
"Louie de Poete"?















Very old town gate


Perouges

Perouges is a restored Medieval village that dates, it is said, from pre-Roman times. The original settlers came from Perugia, Italy. I'm not so sure about that, but the more recent history of the place, the last millennium or so, is fairly well documented, preserved and restored in the stones, mostly by or through the energies of the Lyon historical society. It's a fairly good representation of what a Medieval village might have looked like, architecturally. Walls and fortifications, defensive structures, including the church, fortified gates, etc. Mostly high middle ages, 12th-14th centuries. And not very near the beaten tour bus path. The town lived mostly on agriculture and textile work, but went into serious decline only when the railroad went elsewhere. When the Lyon folks rescued it in the latter 19th century, it was nearly an uninhabited wreck. Not so anymore. We spent the night, along with other savage campeurs (that's what French-type personnes call "wild camping"), in the village parking lot (2 euros).



































































































































West From Chamonix

Looking at the calendar, we decided it was time to head further west and take in a bit more of France. We got as far as the restored Medieval village of Perouges.
We plodded along familiar roads, skirting Geneva, Annecy,
even along a bit of the Route des Grandes Alpes; above, a
new-looking Caterham/Lotus 7; one sees many of these in
Europe, particularly in the Alpine regions; anyhow, this pic
is for you, Ken Stolz

















Stopping for lunch at the beautiful little lake town of
Nantua, sort of a mini-Annecy















Chateau across the lake














Authentic welcome in a concrete patch in the park














And a monument to martyrs of the Resistance

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Petit Balcon Sud

We wanted to do another hike in Chamonix but were not feeling very adventurous. Fortunately, our friend and fellow guide, the estimable Rickie Stevie, came to the rescue, mentioning the petit balcon sud, something we'd never heard of, but which fit our needs admirably. Basically, it traverses the lower bits of the Aiguilles Rouges, overlooking Chamonix, scenic but not too high up.
Wooded, shaded, not too high














Actually it reminded us a bit of many trails we have walked
in the Rocky Mountain West















Except for the views of Chamonix and Mt. Blanc














And the Grepon parking lot, and our rig














Then we stumbled upon the mother of all raspberry patches: hike over (they're
beneath the Plan Praz cable car way)















Back down in town: Chamonix International Airport (arrivals only; departures
from Plan Praz)














Junior Birdman Department: how to be a parapentier

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Descent Via Chairlift

Despite being willing to ride anything in any amusement park, Vicki has a mortal fear of chairlifts. Alas, we arrived at Index too late to walk down to La Flegere (last cable-car down at 5:45PM), so the only choices were a) spend the night, ill-prepared, on the mountain, b) walk down the entire mountain to the valley, in the dark, or c) the chairlift. She conquered her fear, and in this amazing sequence, Vicki rides the chairlift from Index to La Flegere.

































































Lac Blanc Rides Again

I had been to Lac Blanc, high in the Aiguilles Rouges, twice, once on a stage of the TMB, another time from La Flegere. Vicki had never been, and so we decided La Blanc might be another suitable challenge for her new knee.
Sign not taken














Self-portrait near Lac Blanc














Us at Lac Blanc

















From Lac Blanc, looking up the Mer de Glace, the Grand
Jorasses, and Le Geant















Le Geant up close


















The trail from La Flegere to Lac Blanc was a little more
demanding than I had remembered, so we decided to
descend via Index; here are a couple of the metal "assists"
on the way down the easier Index trail

Son Of Chamonix Rides Again

We have lost track of how many times we have been to Chamonix. It is destination enough by itself, and always seems on the way to something else (Italy...France...). Anyhow, the weather in Courmayeur turned wet and ugly again, and we decided Chamonix might be a better place to weather the weather. Besides, it was on the way to France.
Leaving Courmayeur, a storm cloud wraps from the Val
Ferret around Mount Saxe...















Two hours later we were in Chamonix, parked at Grepon,
doing the Saturday market, and enjoying surprisingly dry
and sunny weather; here is a new (to us) market entry,
the Emperor Clock man; tentatively entitled "It is later
than you know"


















Another new entry, the nougat shop














A few days later the circus set up in the tour bus parking lot
next to Grepon; we had always thought it would be neat to
see a European provincial circus and would have paid, oh,
5 euros each for the experience; but they wanted 28! We
encountered these little one-night-stand circuses all over
France in the next couple weeks


















Evening street scene in Chamonix; not the main street, just a
typical one














From a central square, Dr. Paccard gazes upon his mountain














Art nouveau in Chamonix














Try to imagine: 1/2 baguette, stuffed with fries, maybe a
little sauce americaine















Alpenglow on the Aiguille du Midi


















And on the big mountain














Penelope, note: fashionably attired little girl on left, holding
hands with parent/guardian; also, two toddlers on right,
wearing sunglasses
















Europeans have a thing with flowers, and none are better
than the French; even the back streets of Chamonix are
gorgeous