Perugia

We needed a day or two off from hard-core sightseeing, Perugia affords a free camper-stop, so we decided to go there for a couple nights to rest and regroup. Perugia is the capital of Umbria, and we probably didn't do it justice as tourists. Maybe next time.

Under the big shade tree at the camper-stop

Perugia is a major chocolate center and we were parked just

below the Etruscan ChocoHotel

Practically the whole lobby is a showroom of all things

chocolate; well, maybe not all things, but many things you'd

not imagine in chocolate

Including a tub of chocolate ore; and, not pictured, chocolate
beer

We did take a bus to the up-town to see the piazza (reputedly

one of the best in Italy); above, one of the older buildings now

housing several museums (which we skipped)

The piazza and duomo

The griffin is Perugia's emblem, the lion is the Guelphs (or

possibly the Ghibellines; I forget)

The Fontana Maggiore, in the piazza

Very popular with pigeons

Interior of the duomo

In one of the odder religious representations I

have seen, Jesus looks on from his window

high on the duomo

Cat housing; on the street near a residence in Perugia; but not

on the residence

Assisi

Assisi is a beatiful hill town, thoroughly medieval, but not without an ancient touch or two. Here are just a few pix.

Scenes like this all around

The Gothic arch was in use in the 12th-14th

centuries here

In the main piazza, the medieval city hall and

tower, next to the Temple of Minerva

Store in an ancient building

Nice metal work

Looking to the valley below and the other major church,

St. Mary of the Angels and Martyrs or somesuch

Integral buttresses on many of the buildings

If I'd had the camera out and focused a second sooner,

I would have had a perfect Franciscan Abbey Road shot

Facade of the Mary church in the valley; among its two

claims to fame is that it is the 10th largest church in the

RC realm

Its large and largely unadorned interior

But its main attraction is this, Francis' original

little chapel (well adorned)...

Situated beneath the dome of the church

And, from our Stazione camper-stop, one last look at up-town

Assisi and the great Francis duomo

Civita di Bagnoregio

Rickie Stevie characterizes Civita di Bagnoregio as "Italy's ultimate hill town." I suppose the residents--all of them new gentrifiers--are hoping he can do for them what he did for Gimmelwald. Civita used to be tied to Bagnoregio, but the ridge spur connecting them has eroded away, leaving Civita out on an island by itself, connected only by a foot-bridge of sorts. The last traditional resident left a few years ago, in her 90s, and Civita has come to be known as the "city of the dead." As much out of curiosity as anything else, we drove the few miles from Orvieto, took the bus to the bridge, and walked into Civita during a thunderstorm. We spent the night at the camper-stop in the middle of Bagnoregio.

Orvieto from another angle

The main drag in Bagnoregio, during the pausa, when I 
walked out to the foot-bridge en reconnaisance; at least 
it was shaded

And there it is, Civita, hill town, or better, hill hamlet

Spring in Civita

Church, tower, on main piazza

Perhaps the most interesting thing there: in the 16th century, 
many churches, including Civita's  went a more austere route, 
plastering-over and white-washing all the frescoes we now 
regard as priceless; in 1695, the great earthquake occurred,

shaking the plaster off the forgotten fresco; since known as 
the Madonna of the Earthquake

A bit of the badlands-like environs

Looking up the main drag

No lack of beautiful little scenes

The communal lavanderia; running water came to Civita in the early 1900s

Entrance to the Palazzo--only this wall of which remains; the rest fell down the cliff

Bruschetta with local sausage and cheese and tomatoes and olives, etc.

Orvieto Duomo Reliefs

The facade of the cathedral has four giant lower panels on its pilasters (also great bronze images of the gospel writers' symbols; great bronze doors, etc.) with some of the best and best preserved reliefs we have seen, done by Lorenzo Maitani between 1320 and 1330. They cover all the usual biblical and legendary topics, and I just post a few of the best known...

First of the four panels, old testament stuff; "tree" of Jesse

God working in Adam's rib-cage area

"No wonder you had chest pains!"

Sharing a snack

Predictable results

Annunciation

Adoration

Other Adoration

Flight

Always our favorite, Damnation (protective plastic)

Detail

"Not another cathedral!"

c

Orvieto Duomo

Maybe it was the change of pace from the architecture one sees in Rome and in the south, but we really enjoyed the Duomo in Orvieto...

Gothic! and zebra stripes too!

The great facade; the reliefs on the lowest level warrant their 
own post; so we'll go inside this magnificent 13th-15th century 
cathedral

Nave

Although there is some traditional stained glass in the chancel 
and elsewhere, most of the windows are done in translucent 
alabaster

Gotta' have a relic; this the 13th century altar cloth onto which blood fell from 
a consecrated host, thus "proving" the (recent, 1215) theory of transubstantiation

But what we liked best was the Nuova Cappella, and Luca Signorelli's 1499-1504 
fresco cycle of the Last Judgment (and damnation, etc.)

They should have had Signorelli do the Sistine Chapel judgment; IMHO

Alas, the frescoes are up pretty high in the chapel, and I had to hurry the photos 
too;  there are good representations on the web; oh yes, the ceiling and other 
work is by Fra Angelica, and, fittingly, there are many representations of Dante 
in the lower tiers; an amazing place