Thursday, April 7, 2011

Caserta Curiosities

Driving to the Royal Palace, Caserta featured the worst
traffic jam we have yet seen, anywhere in the world--again,
no accident, no construction, just the simple matter of getting
Italians to merge two lanes into one and allow entry from a
side street



















In the Royal Palace, a delicate reminder from















The very tactful School of Public Administration















Marble everywhere...marble veneer, that is




















Kings of Naples..room for six more, too















One of the kings was an avid modeler--here, a model of
flying sailing ships

















Touchdown!















Bird-cage clock




















Baroque trash-can; seriously




















And: the very best nativity scene we have seen yet,
anywhere
















Closer up detail

Caserta Gardens

The great palace building and original furnishings at Caserta should rank among the top few of such sights in Europe. For us, however, the gardens, and especially the English Garden--a multi-acre park really--have to rank among the very best things we have seen.
The garden runs a mile or more, up a man-made series of
cascades, then a man-made water-fall, to the top of the
mountain; the English Garden is on the right 

















From the pond at the foot of the water-fall, looking back to
the palace
















Including today's wedding pix pix















The pond and waterfall and cascade above















Pond sculpture; sculpture everywhere















Some of the quarter mile of lower cascades















In the English Garden, beautiful old pines
everywhere




















And Cedars of Lebanon




















And trees weird-worthy of New Zealand















Rock gardens, leading to a beautiful pond and















A folly/re-creation of Pompei--after all, these
were the royalty mining Pompei for its
treasures





















Everything in bloom















Closer up















The grounds, a carpet of wild-flowers
















Vicki assembling a bouqet




















You can never have enough Follies at your Royal Palace;
this one a temple on an island in a pond
















But it's time to head back to the palace; we're seriously
considering a trip back to Caserta, from Rome, to see the
gardens again



Caserta

After many pleasant days at Camping Spartacus in Pompei, we finally broke camp and headed north, through Naples, and on to Caserta and its Royal Palace.
We've seen many royal palaces, but Caserta was among the
very best
















Stark from the outside, but glorious and authentic within
















Starting with the grand staircase, all pink marble, domes and
other features of which no lens can capture

















Another double-barrel shotgun house, but
even larger and grander than Capodimonte




















In the royal nursery















Ditto
















King's bedroom
















As it looked in the good old days















Queen's bath















Throne room



















Not a lot of great art here--mostly original furnishings of
interest--but who can resist the flamenco cherub band?
















Nice in-laid marble table















Shotgun view of second floor





















Corner of library, with interesting display case
















Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Ravello and Klingsor's Garden

After lunch we took the short bus ride up to Ravello, which is a bit further down the coast but much higher up than Positano and Amalfi. Michelin gives Ravello three stars, and there is a Wagnerian interest as well.
In Ravello and the Villa Rufolo, 1270, mentioned by Boccacio, among others...














When Wagner visited Ravello in 1880, he was so taken with 
the architecture and garden at the Villa Rufolo that he based
the stage design of the 2nd act of Parsifal--Klingsor's 
Enchanted Garden--on it























Entry to the Villa




















Interior at the Villa; Wagner had never seen Moorish architecture before--I 
think--and since the evil magician/ arch-villain  Klingsor--who had taken the 
Grail from the Knights of the Grail-- had to be Moorish, Villa Rufolo suited
well



















Ditto















"Mit diesem Zeichen, bann ich deinen Zauber!"
















Well, it is a gorgeous setting, cliff-side, a thousand feet up
from the sea
















More of the gardens and view















Looking south, not as dramatic a view as that north of Amalfi















But the gardens are pretty nice















Someone really likes pansies















Water feature















More interior















13th century outdoor BBQ














With a view















I don't think Ravello merits 3 stars, or even 1,
but I did come away with some decent wine