Thursday, April 7, 2011

Caserta

After many pleasant days at Camping Spartacus in Pompei, we finally broke camp and headed north, through Naples, and on to Caserta and its Royal Palace.
We've seen many royal palaces, but Caserta was among the
very best
















Stark from the outside, but glorious and authentic within
















Starting with the grand staircase, all pink marble, domes and
other features of which no lens can capture

















Another double-barrel shotgun house, but
even larger and grander than Capodimonte




















In the royal nursery















Ditto
















King's bedroom
















As it looked in the good old days















Queen's bath















Throne room



















Not a lot of great art here--mostly original furnishings of
interest--but who can resist the flamenco cherub band?
















Nice in-laid marble table















Shotgun view of second floor





















Corner of library, with interesting display case
















Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Ravello and Klingsor's Garden

After lunch we took the short bus ride up to Ravello, which is a bit further down the coast but much higher up than Positano and Amalfi. Michelin gives Ravello three stars, and there is a Wagnerian interest as well.
In Ravello and the Villa Rufolo, 1270, mentioned by Boccacio, among others...














When Wagner visited Ravello in 1880, he was so taken with 
the architecture and garden at the Villa Rufolo that he based
the stage design of the 2nd act of Parsifal--Klingsor's 
Enchanted Garden--on it























Entry to the Villa




















Interior at the Villa; Wagner had never seen Moorish architecture before--I 
think--and since the evil magician/ arch-villain  Klingsor--who had taken the 
Grail from the Knights of the Grail-- had to be Moorish, Villa Rufolo suited
well



















Ditto















"Mit diesem Zeichen, bann ich deinen Zauber!"
















Well, it is a gorgeous setting, cliff-side, a thousand feet up
from the sea
















More of the gardens and view















Looking south, not as dramatic a view as that north of Amalfi















But the gardens are pretty nice















Someone really likes pansies















Water feature















More interior















13th century outdoor BBQ














With a view















I don't think Ravello merits 3 stars, or even 1,
but I did come away with some decent wine



















Amalfi Again

On our previous Amalfi coast ride, we had skipped Positano and Ravello, two of the major attractions. So, with a day left on our 3-day transportation pass, we again took the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento, then the bus to Amalfi, stopping off for a while at Positano, and then, after lunch in Amalfi, the bus up to Ravello. For lunch, we went to Il Pari again. I know it sounds pretensious, but we do have our favorite restaurant in Amalfi. Same dish and wine, too. And, for once, just as good as the first time. Plus the waiter got the recipe for us.
Near Positano














In Positano; a terraced world














Imagine carrying these 80 lb puppies up or down five or six
(or 10) levels















From the beach at Positano














Ditto














Ditto again














One of the anti-Saracen-pirate lookout towers














A typical abode; everything in bloom















Beautiful place


















Looking distantly back up the coast














More Mediterranean blue


















Saturday fish market at Amalfi














Tour bus portrait; note the local rascals about to join in














Fountain at Amalfi harbor

Capodimonte 2

Although it was mostly the paintings, and the great building itself, Capodimonte also holds many other items of interest. All in all an impressive collection in an impressive setting.
E. g., this sarcophogal sculpture, half-skeleton
















Yes, but are they diswasher-safe? The royal family's good dishes and solid-gold 
table ornaments
















Capodimonte as well as Caserta Royal Palace (which we'll 
see in a couple days) are really what I would characterize 
as double-barrel shot-gun houses: two parallel 400 foot long 
halls, between which are the main chambers/halls/etc., and 
off which are a variety of other chambers; here you can see 
down one hall at Capodimonte; there are of course three 
floors of this


























Family dining room















Ball room or somesuch















We-actually-know-what-this-is department: a beautiful scale model of the Temple 
of Isis at Pompei (the one donated by the six year old), as it would have looked 
with all its marble and paint (table-top size; well, a large table)


















Court-painter was actually a major industry in by-gone days, 
as each monarch would send likenesses of him/herself to all 
his/her fellow divine-righters; "Your pal always, Napoleon"






















Plus this nice vase




















Some of the tapestries; yes, all Flemish, 17th-18th century,
large enough each to play hand-ball on
















Detail of a battle scene















And more rooms of paintings, large ones too