Sunday, March 13, 2011

Monreale, 2011

The most impressive sight in Palermo is a few miles, and a long bus ride, out of town, the church and abbey cloister of Monreale, created by Roger II in the 12th century. It is Norman in architecture but the interior is the largest and most extravagant (and intact) set of mosaics we have seen. Nothing remaining from the Byzantine world compares, at least in scope and size. The church--which is cathedral-sized--is poorly lit, so the pix do little justice to the mosaics. Most of them are 40-50-60 feet up in the air, on the walls, and are more than life-sized. But they are a delight. Gold and gold-leaf are everywhere.
I was so impressed with the interior, I forgot
to do any decent shots of the exterior; here
are the towers at the bow of the church





















And the old bronze west door



















Interior



















Closer-up; Jesus H. Christ, Pantocrator



















Ditto















The major scenes depict episodes, stories
from the Old Testament, life of Jesus, and
lives of saints, in three ever-higher bands all
around the the building; here's Jesus (halo)
healing the leopards (spots)






















And dropsy



















And the money-changers



















Crucifiction of St. Peter
























































To be continued. I know, I know, I am going to burn in hell,
forever and ever. Amen.

Palermo

We spent three days in Palermo, two of them touring, and another in rest and maintenance (read: doing the wash). Palermo is Sicily's capital, a dense old city of 700,000, in which driving and parking range from difficult to impossible. We stayed at a campground in Sferrocavallo, on the bay, about 15 km from the city center and took buses into town. Even the bus trips were a bit of a challenge. My pedometer got a good work-out in Palermo.
Most of the sights in Palermo are either
Baroque or Norman (yes, Norman, as in
Bayeaux, 1066 and all that; apparently they
had a preference for island kingsdoms;
think: Crusades); anyhow, this is one of
the 4 corners, sort of ground zero on the
Via Vittorio Emmanuel)
























Interior of the Baroque and all-marble Teatini
church, nearby the 4 corners



















Altar, dome, etc.




















Beatiful marble floor throughout















Inlaid



















Teatro Bellini, famous opera composer















Fountain at Piazza Pretoria















Palermo Cathedral















Interior




















Altar and dome




















Interesting floor inlays














Aisle domes




















Tower; all in all, it was not one of the most
impressive cathedrals we have seen; but
wait, there's more...

Saturday, March 12, 2011

Selinunte: The Very Last Of The Greek Temples (That We Know Of)

Selinunte was founded by the Greeks, like the others, in the 7th century BCE or so, and became another thriving colony. The Carthaginians took over in the 400s, then the Romans in 250 BCE. Then Selinunte more or less passed from history. Forgotten city. So much so that its seven massive temple remains are not named but merely labeled, A, B, C, D, E, F, G.

Me atop a column base at Temple G, which would have been
one of the largest Dorics ever built; whether toppled by the
Carthaginians or earthquakes, or both and more, it is the
most massive rubble we have seen


















Ten foot diameter column parts















Temple E, Doric, 5th century, the best preserved















Another view















Across the valley, remains of Temple C, the oldest of the
lot, 6th century; you can see which way the earthquake rolled

















Agora/forum; this place has not been excavated















Another ancient main street















Looking north, the beach and modern town















Simple sarcophagus















Roman wall
















Friday, March 11, 2011

Carnevale in Sciacca

We spent the whole evening walking the main street, viewing all the incredible floats, singing and dancing groups, singing and dancing in the streets, street food all over and other vendors. The floats were the largest and most intricate I have ever seen, generally 4-5 stories tall, and laden with religious/moralistic symbolism beyond us. One other thing was striking, and that was that it was a family event, small kids all over the place, all in costume, just as throughout the days before. (We were beginning to conclude that Sicilian little boys just dressed like Batman or a pirate or cowboy all the time...). We dined at a pizzaria, watching all the excitement process by, then dove back into it. By ten or so we were tired enough to hike back down the hill to the camper stop. But we were back up at 2:30AM to watch the concluding fireworks. These people really know how to party. Check it out at http://www.carnevaledisciacca.it/


























































































Wardrobe malfunction















Huh?


































































































































































2:30 in the AM, seriously, and only then did the din subside















Sciacca the next morning; probably everyone slept in...