Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Agora

After the Acropolis we walked down to the ancient Agora, which has been under excavation since the 1930s by the American School of Classical Studies.
A view of the Agora, and the Temple of Hephaestus, from
the Acropolis
















In the American School of Classical Studies Agora
Museum, "ballots" for ostracism















An ostracism ballot for Arissteides















Speaking of ballots, here's the Stele of
Democracy




















Athenian BBQ grill














The label said this was a toy; OK...
















Portico of the Stoa of Attalos, recreated by the American
School
















View from the Agora back to the Acropolis















Thought to be the House of Simon, an associate of
Socrates, who, like Plato, took notes on Socrates' dialogues















Looking back across the Agora to the Stoa of Attalos















The Temple of Hephaestus, in the Agora; perhaps the best-
preserved of all such temples; had it been on the Acropolis,
someone would have used it for target practice...

















In the vicinity of the various civic buildings in the Agora,
near where, we were told, would have been the jail where
Socrates drank his hemlock cocktail

















A block away from the excavated Agora, the remains of the
Library of Hadrian
















A nice lunch in the souvlaki alley















And everywhere around, more ruins, more excavation

Acropolis

After settling in at Camping Athens, we took the bus and then Athens' new metro into the centrum to see first the Acropolis and then the Agora and environs. It was a beautiful autumn Sunday, and, with an early start, we avoided the heaviest crowds.
The Odeon,  just below the Acropolis















The Propylaea, entrance to the Acropolis















Not biggest, nor best, nor best-preserved, but probably the
most famous of all the Greek temples, the Parthenon; it's all
about location; undergoing massive restoration (since 1984)

















The Erechtheum















With its famous porch of the Caryatids















Full frontal view of the Parthenon















Below, one of many spare parts yards; they are really
serious about putting this thing back together...
















Looking out to several notable sites: the new Acropolis
Museum, the theatre and sanctuary of Dionysys, remains
of the Temple of Zeus, and the Olympic stadium, built into
the original stadium (right to left...)


















Indeed a re-construction site















Us on the Acropolis















The beautiful little Ionic temple of Athena Nike












We spent the rest of the day looking at the Agora and
environs, and then visited the impressive new Acropolis
Museum; sadly, the Museum is mostly a reminder of just
how much of the Parthenon was looted and now resides
in London

















We had to stick around until after dark to see it all lit up

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Delphian Outtakes

Doric rubbish bin

Disability ramp to Temple of Apollo















Oracle's emergency exit


















 
Collapsed column, not convincingly re-arranged















Me, at a fissure in the rock, hoping for a wisp of the winning
numbers in the Florida lottery, c. December 20th...5, 11, 17,
23, 29...wait! those are just prime numbers!

















They really are put together just like Legos















The sacred spring, now off-limits due to
rock-fall from the cliffs above




















The sacred spring now..sic transit, Gloria




















We drove on, through this little mountain town, where we
encountered no less than 12 tour buses on its tiny streets;
the mountain town of Vicki's nightmares; but we made it and
drove on to Athens and Camping Athens, and a week's
adventures and misadventures in another great city

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Museum of Delphi

We had Delphi pretty much to ourselves...early morning, low season. After finishing the site and grounds, we returned to the museum.
The Museum at Delphi















The Twins of Argos




















The Sphinx from Naxos (an island in the
Aegean), with her Mona Lisa smile



















Surprisingly, despite aeons' of looting, gold was found at
Delphi, under the huge paving stones
















Bronze helmut decoration, with copper inlay















The Philosopher



















Antinoos, Emperor Hadrian's cute traveling
companion




















The Charioteer, one of the few Greek bronzes

Monday, December 6, 2010

Oracle of Delphi

The Oracle of Delphi is one of the most famous places of antiquity, and, after the Acropolis, contemporary Greece's most-visited site. From the earliest twilight of classical Greece, in the 7th and 8th centuries BCE, right on through Hellenistic times and into the Roman era, no important issue of city, state, or family, was decided without consulting the famous oracle, said to be the voice of Apollo, the one trustworthy god. Delphi, as archaeologists and geologists now think, was all about location, location, location. It is on a steep southern buttress of Mt. Parnassus, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, in about as unlikely a place for a town or a shrine as one can imagine. But it is at the intersection of two faults, and at this intersection, methane, ethylene and other light gases were emitted. Inhaling them, it was discovered (initially through the odd behavior of a flock of goats), brought about trance-like and other unusual behaviors. In its earliest stages, Delphi was a shrine to the Mother Goddess, Ge, but, so the story goes, Apollo showed up (from Asia Minor; remember our post on Letoon, the shrine to his mom, Leto? Of course you do), and killed the snake, Pythes, who was assigned to guard the place. Since then it has been Apollo's place, blessed by the presence and wisdom of the Oracle. Over the many centuries, local women were placed in the depths, on a tripod chair, breathed the gases, and uttered strange and interesting things, which were then "interpreted" by the priests, in response to whomever had paid to get the advice. The advice was always vague/multiply ambiguous, something that could neither be verified nor falsified straightforwardly. We are talking about religion here. Also in hexameter, which added to the thrill. In any case, there were enough satisfied customers over the ages for Delphi to become the ancient world's #1 oracle. Minimum fee was a loaf of bread. Wealthier clients, like cities, when pleased, would leave vast monuments and treasures (e.g., Athens, which was told to trust in its "wooden walls," i.e., its fleet, in the 2nd Persian war). The Oracle operated well into the 4th century, but was closed, as were all other "pagan" sites, by the Christian emperor Theodosius. The remains of these monuments and treasures, after further centuries of Roman and Christian looting and plundering, earthquakes, landslides, etc., are in the museum at Delphi and other museums. Delphi was excavated largely by the French, in the 19th century.
A model of the upper, main, bits of the sanctuary, in its
hey-day















Along one of the stoa, en route to the temple, where you
could pick up last minute offerings, souvenirs
















The polygonal wall, below the temple, along another stoa














On its stones were written, among other things, documents
freeing slaves...















On this pedestal once stood the serpentine column
celebrating the Greek vistory over the Persians at Plataea;
we saw it, or remains of it, a couple months ago in the
Hippodrome at Constantinople/Istanbul


















On the way up to the temple, looking back to the Athenian
"treasury" and the one of the "omphalos" markers, just
to the left of the treasury building; Delphi was
considered the center of the earth, its navel, hence,
"omphalos" (it's a long story)



















Columns of the temple of Apollo, where the oracle (sibyll)
did her thing















View of the temple; Vicki says the Oracle's station was to
the right, under the collapsed flooring
















Theatre at Delphi, not huge, but Greek















The stadium at Delphi, home of the Pythian Games, second
only in importance to the Olympic Games ("Pythian"
because the snake Apollo killed was the Python (no relation
to Monty)); home of the Pything contests ("that's a myth";
"yeth?")[running gag]

















The gymnasium, beneath the main sanctuary















And the Temple of Athena, one of the stations of the cross,
so to speak, for pilgrims to the Oracle















Saturday, December 4, 2010

On to Parnassus

We decided that, before seeing much more of Greece, we had better consult with the Oracle of Delphi, or at least with the tourist information office there. This time of year, as it turns out, Delphi is more a necropolis than a town, and there was no tourist information office. But the scenery on the way from Thermopylae to Mount Parnassus, under which Delphi sits, was interesting.
Above Thermopylae, the Gulf of Malia at the far right; 2500
years ago, the gulf formed the narrow pass, with only the
room between it and the cliffs for one chariot to ride;
all the great plain in the photo is siltation...


















The bits of eastern and northern Greece we have seen have
been surprisingly green and fertile, especially for December;
there have been huge green plains in addition to the hills
here


















Yes, there are mountains, too, many mountains














No mosques nor minarets, but thousand of these little
roadside displays--Vicki calls them "shrines on a stick"--put
up both for close calls as well as for fatalities
















Shrine on a stick interior















Hillside town in the Sea of Olives















From our campsite, at Camping Apollon in Delphi, looking
out over the Sea of Olives (another silted up plain) to the
Gulf of Corinth