Friday, August 27, 2010

Slav Epic

So, after six days, we reluctantly left Prague, already beginning to feel pressured and rushed by the impending expiration of our Schengen time and with two more big cities, Vienna and Budapest, before us. We did take time to stop off in Moravsik Crumlov--Moravian Crumlov (there's a Bohemian one too)--to see Mucha's massive Slav Epic paintings.
The Slav Epic has been displayed for some years in the
castle at Moravsik Crumlov








Not particularly well signed, but, at length, we found it







Going on in the park next door was a drumming marathon
and concert that evening






Drumming stage










Drummers drumming their drums














The castle itself is a bit of a fixer-upper











Original sun dial, no doubt










But it has its charm












Mucha willed his Slav Epic to the Czech
people and Prague, on the condition that
Prague build a suitable venue for it; Prague
continues to try to get the paintings, to put
them up in an old palace somewhere;
Moravsik Crumlov and the Mucha family
continue to fight the move; the matter is
presently in the courts; taped on the door
here is an injunction forbidding the removal
of the paintings; stay tuned, the Moravcsik
Crumlov people say



















Anyhow, here are two of the twenty paintings (off the web;
there is a no pix policy); they are indeed enormous, 20 by
30 foot canvasses, originally made for ships' sails











The paintings are quite moving, even if, like
us, you don't know much Czech or Slavic
history; you can see more if you like by simply
searching "Mucha Slav Epic"

Prague Miscellany 2


Vicki at the Kafka statue











The sidewalks throughout the old city are of
brick, often with intricate designs; it's a
labor-intensive process with a beautiful result













The lower escalator at the Mustek subway station is one of the
longest I have seen and is certainly the fastest--twice, I'd say,
the speed of normal escalators; here's Vicki being whooshed
upstairs









How Czech public television plans to improve its ratings





Not sexist, though

Prague Miscellany 1

Miscellaneous shots from Prague

Our campground, out on the west side, near
Trebonice; the Stanik family has run the
farm for 300 years, and their campground,
not quite as old, is perhaps the best we have
stayed at in Europe, small, but amply
featured, convenient to the city, and the
most helpful and generous staff we've
encountered


















Hare krishna, with amplifiers and headphones, on the
Charles Bridge







The pissing match statues near the Kafka Museum; one of
the world's more interesting water features; you can control
their actions (some of them) by sending text messages...









The Kafka Museum itself; Kafka stuff is all over Prague













One-way alley with traffic signal











Holy Finger, on the Charles Bridge











Marionette theaters and shoppes are all over
the old town












One popular marionette

Church of St. Nicholas, Mala Strana

We had planned to skip this one--how many Baroque churches do you have to see?--but it was right across the street from a restaurant we liked, and something told me it was worth the (modest) admission fee.
St. Nicholas from street level












Interior; knock-out Counter-Reformation
Baroque to the hilt












Altar













Impressive dome









Nave ceiling











Organ












Interesting pose, Vicki thought











Skewering another Protestant

Hradcany Castle

It's way too large for a photo, built in the Middle Ages, and added on to since.

But first, today's wedding photo shoot shot, in the castle
square (we see one nearly every day)





The Czech crown, etc.; hasn't been used for quite a while
















Interior of St. George's Basilica, a 10th
century chapel on the premises













The basilica itself







View out the state rooms' windows (the usual no pix policy
enforced)








The view: the domes and roof of St. Nicholas', in Mala
Strana, below the castle hill




The Moldau and Charles Bridge below











The City of Spires, it's called









Ditto

St. Vitus' Cathedral

St. Vitus' is in the Hradcany Castle complex, on the west side of the town, on a hill over-looking the Moldau. Parts of the castle go back to the 11th century or earlier. St. Vitus took some 600 years to build, started in the 13th century, finished in the 19th. It is quite large and high, with beautiful windows and scultpure, very much the national cathedral of the Czech Republic.
West facade and towers; flaming Gothic, as
you can see












Interior











Beautiful windows (Mucha's the best, we
thought; see earlier post)












Stained light on the floor










Ceiling; note tracery at top of windows












Tomb of St. Vitus; the original church was
built around it in the 10th century













A royal tomb













Rose window











St. Wenceslas chapel






East side, buttresses, spires and tower