Prague Food and Drink

At a place called Beseda, in Mala Strana, which claimed
to be the original Pilsner Urquell restaurant, we stopped
for a snack that became a meal; he's pouring my mug of
PU; note bar...an old vat

Prague restaurants are branded, in the sense that
they serve only one brand of beer; Urquell is by
far most prevalent; one also sees Gambrinus,
Budweiser (the Budweiser), Staroplamen (Prague
brewery), Birrell; the lager version of beer was
invented in nearby Pilsen

I am no connoisseur of beers, but, let me tell you, this is not
Coors or Bud light! Very flavorful, especially the hops; and
very cheap, relatively speaking; Vicki and I practiced the
Czech mode of toasting, that is, clicking the tops and the
bottoms of the mugs, setting them (briefly) on the table, then
drinking

We shared an assortment of Czech cheeses and a bowl of
cream of garlic soup; best cream of garlic soup ever for me

Restaurant decoration; OK, Mozart, who did a
lot of time in Prague, obviously did not drink
Pilsner Urquell

A few nights later we dined at the Staroplamen brewery
restaurant in Sicha, recommended for high quality local
dishes and few if any tourists; this is goulash and the
bread-looking things are dumplings; plain brown sauce
and chunks of beef; Vicki had a similar pork dish; this is
hearty fare, as they say; the beer was good, and the
cigar list actually appeared on the menu

The Staroplamen Brewery in Sicha, across the river from
Nove Mesto ("new town"; founded in 1348)

Prague has a very lively international restaurant scene, with
French, Italian, Asian, everything really, well represented;
the reason for this is that Czech food is so, um, hearty; you
can't eat it more than once or twice a week; in the Jewish
quarter, a few days later, we ran into a credible Belgian
restaurant, called Les Moules, and pigged out, me on the
moules (it's been since Annecy, I think, that I had moules),
Vicki on the largest pork T-bone ever seen; even had Duvel
and other great Belgian beers

Moules at Moules'

Later in the week, however, we had to go back to Beseda for
the garlic soup, this time with a roast pork, duck, beef assortment; and PU

Ye Olde Absinthe Bar and Museum

For some reason (Kafka? the Bohemian thing?), absinthe is very big in Prague, featured in all the liquor and souvenir stores, and even this Absintherium, a bar and museum. We abstained. I tried it once, in York, of all places, and did not like the bitter aftertaste. (In addition to the bitter aftertaste, it's also alcoholic, a stimulant/depressant, an aphrodisiac, habit-forming, and, in the traditional version, deadly). Fortunately, there's plenty of other stuff to drink in Prague.

Outside the Absintherium; "all to go"

Inside; scores of brands, flavors

I think this collection of spoons, used to mix sugar with the

stuff (5 parts water, too), constitutes the museum

Absinthe slushees; seriously

Another Night at the Opera

Tuesday we went into town late and saw an interesting opera/ballet performance of Bizet's Carmen (Nietzsche's favorite opera), then wandered about the Josefov and the Stare Mesto at night (with thousands of other tourists).

The show was a kind of combination opera/

ballet, oratorio-style singing, ballet going

on meanwhile, even some old cinema of

Seville; interesting; it was at the Divadlo

Hybernia, across from the Municipal House

Bizet's music is glorious

Entrance to the Municipal House; we

visited it a few days later

Its adjoining tower

Tower of the Church of Our Lady of Tyn

(I think)

The Rathaus Tower

Prague's astronomical clock

Looking across the Moldau to Hradcany Castle

And St. Vitus'

Prague Sites 2

Prague has its share of castles, museums, cathedrals, etc., but what interested us most was the array of Art Nouveau buildings all over the five main districts of the old town; every block revealed new wonders; none of these are national nor religious shrines; just buildings, street after street, block after block, some commercial, most residential. Here's a nearly random assortment.

Outside the Mustek metro station in Stare Mesto

Just down the street; after a few hours in Prague, you begin

to get a neck-ache looking up at these things

Ditto

Gold, grill-work, ornamentation everywhere

Just an apartment house, probably

Stores, shops

Hotel entrance across from the Mucha Museum

Stunning stuff, some of it

Entrance to a shopping arcade in Stare Mesto

Many buildings adorned with paintings

On Neruda Street in Mala Strana, just residences mostly

Medusa

Locksmith

Swan House

Prague Sights 1

So tonight, August 26th, finds us in Budapest, or maybe just Pest, and I am two full cities behind in blogging. So here goes with Prague, where we spent six absolutely wonderful days.

It did not start well; a two-hour traffic jam getting to our

campground; whole expressways closed for construction,

exits closed; and all you can see from the outer ring-road

is a massive wall of high-rise apartments

But it got better as soon as we got into the old town; here

we are near the Charles Bridge, the Moldau and Hradcany

Castle in the background

One of the towers at either end of the bridge,

which is itself 700 years old

The Moldau, Hradcany Castle complex, and St. Vitus'

Cathedral

The other tower and Mala Strana skyline

Mustek St. in Mala Strana

Looking the other way

The gardens at Wallenstein Palace; where the Czech

Republic Senate meets

Boating on the Moldau

The "dancing" building, called by Prague residents

"Ginger and Fred"

More revealing view; one of very few new

buildings of interest

Looking into Wenceslas Square toward the

national museum; in the early 90s, a

hundred thousand protesters gathered

here nightly for two weeks, demanding the

communist government step down; it did,

and a democracy was re-born here

Prague, ad interim

We spent six days in Prague, saw much, and took thousands of pix. If nothing else, it is certainly the most picturesque European city we have seen, particularly if you like Art Nouveau (we do). So it will take me a few days to select a few dozen pix for the blog. Stay tuned....

Olomouc's Proletarian Clock

After one has seen numerous other astronomical clocks in other cities, all featuring saints and kings and jousting knights and dancing apprentices, the clock in Olomouc is a breath of fresh air. The Germans wrecked the 16th century Olomouc clock as they retreated from then-Czechslovakia, apparently thinking the Red Army hot on their heels would not be able to tell time and would get confused. Anyhow, the town rebuilt the clock in 1953, this time featuring workers and comrades and other aspects of Marxist ethos. As I said, after months of kings, saints, knights, et al., it was truly refreshing, and well worth the drive, to see normal people thus enshrined.

The astronomical clock at Olomouc, just

before high noon, Sunday

Such clocks would be termed "multi-functional" today;

they tell the time, of course; the date; the moon phase;

the zodiac sign; and of course, which saint to pray to on

each day of the year; the communists cleverly added,

in red, the birthdays of Marx, Lenin, Stalin, et al.

At the stroke of 12, it all comes to life

Mother and child, welder, baker, athlete, musicians,

teacher...

Mechanics, professors, farm workers...

Et al.

Oh well, back to the world of kings and saints and

emperors and generals; en route to Prague, the "monument"

at Austerlitz, from the Napoleonic wars