Hirschgarten

After the Nymphenburg, we headed to the nearby Hirschgarten for a late but leisurely lunch.  Although out in the suburbs, the Hirschgarten is reputedly Munich's largest bier garten--seats 8,000, they say--and the scale is indeed impressive.

Entry signage

A bit, but a representative tiny bit, of the Hirschgarten

The Hirschgarten's old-style Pisshof

Help yourself to a mug; maybe give it an extra rinse

The cafeteria-style food area; I had my favorite bratwurst

mit currysauce and pommes frites; and bier; Vicki had my

pommes frites and a gelato, a balanced choice

Nymphenburg Palace and Park and Amalienburg

We spent the better part of the day out at the Nymphenburg Palace, one of a dozen or so palaces and castles of the Wittelsbach family, who ruled Bavaria for 700 years.

Of course, we ran into a wedding

Nymphenburg, the main building--actually it is a huge

ellipse all around the lake

Main hall

How paintings get restored; how chiropractors get clients

Royal bed-chamber

Queen's bed-chamber, original furniture, where Ludwig II

(Loonie Ludwig) was born

Part of the Hall of Beauties--Ludwig I had

portraits done of 40 contemporary women

he regarded as great beauties (no word on

what the Queen thought of this)

My great achievement of the day was

locating and photographing the portrait of

Lola Montez, in the Hall of Beauties, with

whom Ludwig I had an affair that brought

down his government and forced him to

resign; Lola went on to America and was

a famous personage in the American Wild

West (I speculate: the character of Lillie 
von Schtupp, in Blazing Saddles, is based, 
um, loosely, on her)

Nymphenburg Palace from the gardens

The Amalienburg, the Queen's hunting lodge

A bit of the interior

All solid silver, of course

The kitchen, beautiful tile-work

Hofbrauhaus

Of course we had to revisit the Hofbrauhaus, site of memorable experiences in 1979 (including, not least, an acquaintance, a nurse, who downed 3 mugs in our presence before heading off to work)

A way-old place, re-built twice since the war, but to generally the same specifications

Most people head to the bier garten

Or the ground floor halls

But we headed to the upstairs Festsaal, with its entertainment and 
buffet meal of Bavarian goodies

Including bier; 1 liter is the only size available (at least

that's what I told Vicki)

There was the old German band

And dancing, including slap-dancing and whip-dancing

And, most memorably, this card, stuck to the ceiling above the stage at the 
head of the hall, 30 feet up there; none of the staff conceded any knowledge 
of it

There it is (click to enlarge); I believe it marks the spot where Hitler's bullet hit 
(in the re-construction) in his attempt to quell the Beer Hall Putsch crowd in 1923

(everyone kept putsching and tschoving...); must check this out someday

Munich Sights

We left the Obersalzburg, finally, and drove on to Munich, staying at Camping Thalkirchen (where we had stayed in 1979) for three nights while we re-explored this beautiful city, using the very convenient bus/subway/tram system for transportation.

Yes, we are in the land of super-sized

pretzels

One of the twin domes of the Marienkirche;

the other was under scaffolding

Interior of the church; rather dull, I thought

The Augustiner, one of the older brewhouses

Street scene; the Starbucks dates from 1328...

Another...all this undoubtedly re-built;

Munich was fairly flattened by bombing in

1944-45

The very famous Rathaus

With its even more famous clock

The joust, at the critical moment

Followed by the dancing of the apprentices

or someone else

My attempt at going native ended successfully

Dokumentation Center

Very close to the Berghof and where Goering and Borman and Goebels all had houses, is the Dokumentation Center, which painstakingly documents the rise of Hitler and his party, their 12 years of rule, and all its ghastly effects. It was packed, and, as one might expect, a very quiet and somber place. It is mostly photographs and documents--letters, orders, diary entries, newspaper coverage, etc.--but very effective, I thought, in telling the whole horrible story.

It is a grisly place, but something you have to see and spend some time reflecting on. The cult of personality is never very far away, even in democracies.

Dokumentation Center

A painting of the Berghof; the "romantic,"  nature-loving 
Hitler was part of the story sold to the public

Evidence of the Hitler craze

Large map showing all the known concentration camps,  "murder factories," 
and other such places

Below, the Dokumentation Center connects to the maze of concrete bunkers 
and tunnels in the Obersalzburg; fortunately, the Alpine Redoubt never took place

Map of the tunnels and fortifications

It is a grisly place, but something you have to see and spend some time reflecting on. The cult of personality is never very far away, even in democracies.

A Gay Romp with Mark and Vicki at Berchtesgaden

"Germany was having trouble
What a sad, sad story
Needed a new leader to restore
Its former glory
Where, oh, where was he?
Where could that man be?
We looked around and then we found
The man for you and me
And now it's...
Springtime for Hitler and Germany
Deutschland is happy and gay!
We're marching to a faster pace
Look out, here comes the master race!
Springtime for Hitler and Germany
Rhineland's a fine land once more!
Springtime for Hitler and Germany
Watch out, Europe
We're going on tour!"

from "Springtime for Hitler: A Gay Romp with Adolf and Eva at Berchtesgaden," The Producers

Kehlsteinhaus, the Eagles Nest; Hitlers home, the

Berghof, was on the mountainside below;

Kehlsteinhaus was used only for state visits, and

only a few of those prior to the war; Hitler was

there only 14 times

The original brass elevator and much of the place (what

couldn't be carried off by looters) is intact

View from Kehlsteinhaus, Untersberg, Salzburg, etc.

Salzburg Fortress in the center; I promise this is the last

shot of it

Official sign; all the Nazi stuff has been removed

"Heinz, why don't you let the Fuehrer use

your binculars?" from the photo gallery

Eva's room, so-called sometimes

The conference room, now, of course, a restaurant

View from above

Us, squinting into the Bavarian sun, but still humming

"Germany was having trouble..." (the day's ear-worm)