Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Ascents of Jenner and Schneibstein in the Bavarian Alps

We were going to tour Berchtesgaden, the Dokumentation Center, and the Kehlsteinhaus. But the weather suggested another day hike for me in the Koenigsee area. I opted for a ride up onto the Jenner, a 74m ascent of it, and then a much longer climb up its neighbor, the Schneibstein. The trail up Schneibstein is what the Germans and Austrians call a kletterweg; part trail, part blazes over rough ground, elementary rock-climbing skills and experience required. I found it the most taxing trail I have done so far, though not particularly long.
Hobbit-sized cable car, and a very long ride up the
mountain















From the summit of Jenner, the Untersberg, and
to the right, in the distance, Salzburg; click to
enlarge and you'll see the Hohensalzburg Fortress
















Summit cross of Jenner


















Below, the fiord-like Koenigsee, and the south face
of Watzmann, the big mountain in the area














Starting my climb up Schneibstein, a vew of the
back-side of Goll; on its other side is the
Kehlsteinhaus, the Eagles Nest

















Crossing into Austria; again


















Exactly 1,000 feet below Schneibstein's summit














Schneibstein summit cross


















Big mountains to the west














Watzmann from Schneibstein














Looking back down to Jenner














Rocks on the trail, worn down, polished, by many boots
over the years















Schneibstein from the saddle between it 
and Jenner



















On the ride back down, I was treated to a tandem
parasail flying rings around the cable-car line















Closer-up

Traunstein and Herr Scheissschopper

Our next few days, after a fruitful visit to the huge Salzburg Mercedes dealership (advice about tires, oil, other matters), were spent near Traunstein, in Germany, where we had finally, at great length, and trouble, located an RV dealer (Grunaugl, mit two umlauts) and repair shop that would obtain for us and install a new macerator. Our previous macerator had expired; and, let me tell you that, in a rig like ours, and in a place like Europe, life without Mssr. Macerateur is very unpleasant. (The Germans were translating macerator as "toilet chopper"). Traunstein is perhaps half an hour from Salzburg. Fortunately, we were able to park free at the dealership, which has its own stellplatz.
The failed Scheissschopper







In Traunstein, we ran into a large monthly flea market...
ein floh markt











It was fun looking around at what ordinary people buy and
sell at such events; out of the ordinary, perhaps, I found an
original 1895 leather-bound, fully-intact illustrated edition
of Houston Stewart Chamberlain's Wagner book, for 25
euros; he was one of the earliest British Wagner idolizers;
also some traditional clothing, but the market closed before
we could collect more geld from the wall





We made our way next back into Salzburg, en route to
Berchtesgaden, and encountered a wedding procession














Austrian wedding security; note the earphones









We drove on through Berchtesgaden and
spent an afternoon nosing around cheesy
Koenigsee; marmot oil is a popular home
remedy (for what I don't want to think
about); Europeans everywhere seem
fascinated by marmots















And then found a lay-by, on a beautiful creek, between









The ancient toll-house on the German-
Austrian border












And the Untersberg









































































Vicki, who had by now had quite enough of Salzburg, felt she was being sucked back into it...this, the Obersalzburg, was our base of operations for a couple more days...and it was not our last return to Salzburg.  For possibly obscure reasons, we spent the evening watching The Producers, a film we love and live by. Possibly our only meaningful connection with Berchtesgaden.

Ascent of the Untersberg

The final trip on our Salzburger Cards, as the last seconds of our 72 hour limit expired, was the cable-car ride up the Untersberg, the bigger mountain that overlooks the valley and city
The Untersberg, from Hellbrunn gardens,
the day before












Cable-car up to nearly the top











View at the top: total white-out, cold, raining, windy; I was
going to walk to the summit for a day-hike, but quickly
came to my senses







From the station at the top: cables descending into the void








The Untersberg, from Salzburg outskirts, a few days later

Hellbrunn

And one day we took the bus out to Hellbrunn, the Prince/Archbishops' summer palace a few miles from Salzburg. It is notable for its "trick fountains"--sort of a 17th century water park--everyone gets a splash. At least one of the Prince/Archbishops had a sense of humor.
The main hall of the Hellbrunn Palace







Beginning of the trick fountains: the Archbishop's dinner
table








To some it's actually a surprise










Grotto--lots of them--of St. George killing
the dragon












Water-powered miniature city with 160 moving figures









17th-century trick fountain control-panel;
"pay no attention to that man at the control 
panel"













Another scene from Sound of Music, the "conservatory"
scene, was filmed at Hellbrunn; Vicki is singing "I am 62,
going on 63..."







We next visited the folk museum, up the hill on the
Hellbrunn estate









Looking back to Salzburg and the fortress








And the Hellbrunn palace










Silly folk hats in the museum; did my
forebears wear one of these?!












And a bit of theology

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Es muss ein Stiegl sein!

It must be a Steigl! We spent a few pleasant hours touring the Stiegl brewery. Salzburg's beer. Also said to be the largest brewery exhibition in Europe. The ticket included 3 biers each; I had to go back the next day to finish them off.

The Stiegl brewery









Brew World












Exhibits ranged over 4 floors or so; what they did was
convert the old 19th-20th century brewery into a huge
museum; all the old machinery; art; much more







But the main thing you need to know, in Salzburg, is that











Mozart drank Stiegl











A fascinating exhibit on alternative ways to open a beer
bottle







Art













In one of the tasting rooms/restaurants

Music City

Mozart statue in the city square; never has
one city made more of/off one person...who
died in abject poverty













The Birth House












Clandestine shot in the Geburthaus







The Wohnhaus








The Haus fur Mozart; the Festspielhaus, home of the
Salzburg Easter Festival, most prestigious of all musical
events (so I have read)











Festspielhaus, dome, and
fortress












To be a street musician in this town, you'd better be good;
these guys were good, performing from The Marriage of
Figaro