Thursday, December 16, 2010

Aegean Cruise

We had wanted to see a bit more of the Greek islands and to mix some island-hopping with our archaeological interests. Our first choice would have been Santorini (aka Thera) and its Akrotiri archaeological site. Santorini is in the Cyclades island group and is itself the remains of a volcanic cone that blew off some 3600 years ago in one of the largest known volcanic explosions. What is of archaeological interest is the relatively recently discovered town of Akrotiri, buried in cinders sometime around 1628 BCE; sort of like Pompeii, only 1600 years older, and Minoan, not Roman. And in many ways, all the more remarkable. But the Santorini site has been closed for several years and remains closed (another long story).

We ended up choosing Mykonos, also in the Cyclades, and its site on the nearby island of Delos, said by some to be the second most important religious site for the Greeks, after Delphi; and also associated with Apollo. We conferred with several travel agents in Athens, about the ferries, Mykonos, and Delos, received appropriate assurances, and then proceeded to free-lance the trip, stuffing overnight gear into a day-pack and showing up at the dock very early the next morning. We should have consulted the Oracle at Delphi, too, but that's part of a larger story. To be continued.
We took the bus to Piraeus and arrived well before dawn's
rosy fingers touched the wine dark sea; cast-off was at 7:35
AM

















Leaving Piraeus















Looking back toward Athens















At least on our little five hour voyage, islands were always
in view, sometimes quite large, sometimes small, sometimes
inhabited, sometimes not

















Typical scenery; beautiful clear day















Landing at Syros



















More Syros; we also stopped at Dinos















Our ship, the Good Ferry Ithaki; wait, wasn't that Odysseus'
ship's name?
















Aegean sunset the next day

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Athens Miscellaneous

Our campsite, among the olive and orange trees, at Camping
Athens, a bit pricey, but nice
















View of the Acropolis from the Museum















Looking across the Agora and the Temple of Hephaestus at
a small bit of Athens--4 million people
















Ruins of the Temple of Zeus, under the Acropolis















Looking toward Piraeus, Athens' port














In the meat market, silly wabbits















Absolutely best sign store yet; "and in English, too"















Greek Parliament















Guards strutting their stuff















Cute skirts and goose steps














Athens is the most tagged city we have seen yet















Agora

After the Acropolis we walked down to the ancient Agora, which has been under excavation since the 1930s by the American School of Classical Studies.
A view of the Agora, and the Temple of Hephaestus, from
the Acropolis
















In the American School of Classical Studies Agora
Museum, "ballots" for ostracism















An ostracism ballot for Arissteides















Speaking of ballots, here's the Stele of
Democracy




















Athenian BBQ grill














The label said this was a toy; OK...
















Portico of the Stoa of Attalos, recreated by the American
School
















View from the Agora back to the Acropolis















Thought to be the House of Simon, an associate of
Socrates, who, like Plato, took notes on Socrates' dialogues















Looking back across the Agora to the Stoa of Attalos















The Temple of Hephaestus, in the Agora; perhaps the best-
preserved of all such temples; had it been on the Acropolis,
someone would have used it for target practice...

















In the vicinity of the various civic buildings in the Agora,
near where, we were told, would have been the jail where
Socrates drank his hemlock cocktail

















A block away from the excavated Agora, the remains of the
Library of Hadrian
















A nice lunch in the souvlaki alley















And everywhere around, more ruins, more excavation

Acropolis

After settling in at Camping Athens, we took the bus and then Athens' new metro into the centrum to see first the Acropolis and then the Agora and environs. It was a beautiful autumn Sunday, and, with an early start, we avoided the heaviest crowds.
The Odeon,  just below the Acropolis















The Propylaea, entrance to the Acropolis















Not biggest, nor best, nor best-preserved, but probably the
most famous of all the Greek temples, the Parthenon; it's all
about location; undergoing massive restoration (since 1984)

















The Erechtheum















With its famous porch of the Caryatids















Full frontal view of the Parthenon















Below, one of many spare parts yards; they are really
serious about putting this thing back together...
















Looking out to several notable sites: the new Acropolis
Museum, the theatre and sanctuary of Dionysys, remains
of the Temple of Zeus, and the Olympic stadium, built into
the original stadium (right to left...)


















Indeed a re-construction site















Us on the Acropolis















The beautiful little Ionic temple of Athena Nike












We spent the rest of the day looking at the Agora and
environs, and then visited the impressive new Acropolis
Museum; sadly, the Museum is mostly a reminder of just
how much of the Parthenon was looted and now resides
in London

















We had to stick around until after dark to see it all lit up

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Delphian Outtakes

Doric rubbish bin

Disability ramp to Temple of Apollo















Oracle's emergency exit


















 
Collapsed column, not convincingly re-arranged















Me, at a fissure in the rock, hoping for a wisp of the winning
numbers in the Florida lottery, c. December 20th...5, 11, 17,
23, 29...wait! those are just prime numbers!

















They really are put together just like Legos















The sacred spring, now off-limits due to
rock-fall from the cliffs above




















The sacred spring now..sic transit, Gloria




















We drove on, through this little mountain town, where we
encountered no less than 12 tour buses on its tiny streets;
the mountain town of Vicki's nightmares; but we made it and
drove on to Athens and Camping Athens, and a week's
adventures and misadventures in another great city