Museo Belles Artes

We should have gone to one of BA's museums of Latin American art. That would have entailed knowing something about Latin American Art, however, and, alas, we know very little, and thus would have gained very little in a visit. Next time we will do better. (And we're increasingly thinking, after just a few days, there will be a next time here). In any case, we visited the Museo Belles Artes, which features quite a bit of the European art we have come to know fairly well. It was a rainy Sunday afternoon, and the place was packed.

BA's Museo Belles Artes

Not a Rembrandt self-portrait; looks like his second wife

A Pietro Pablo study (Rubens)

A Cranach!

Another Rubens

A Zuberan; we like pointy hats from the
Inquisition (nobody expects the Spanish
Inquisition!)

Domenikos Theotokopolos; the Greek

Gustave Courbet, Orange Sea

The first of several Goyas

We'll be in Prado in a few months

A The Kiss in marble

More Goya

Another Goya, featuring a papal fly-by

Eugene Boudin, The River at Portrieux

Manet, The Nymph Surprised

I was hoping to make art history by identifying
a lost Fragonard, but it was only a Fantin-Latour

Monet, on the Seine

An early Toulouse-Lautrec

Never, ever miss a Berthe Morisot

Or a pretty Renoir

Or a Gauguin

Interesting place, and a reminder of how young
this city is

El Caminito

Fortified by our lunch, we ventured on into La Boca, another old barrio, to see El Caminito, a neighborhood of brightly painted and corrugated buildings, something of an artist colony, now something of a tourist trap. BA's answer to Pigeon Forge, we thought.

Haven't see this sort of thing since Istanbul; of course, in the
US people live in containers this size

Approaching El Caminito

There

Tango on display

Monument to firemen

Vicki showing her devotion (putting a coin in
the box); we're still waiting to hear how we can
use the plenary dispensations we earned at
St. Pierre's church in Antakya (Antioch); see
http://roadeveron.blogspot.com.ar/2010/10/
another-day-another-cave-st-pierres-in.html

Having gotten the gist, we walked on to the harbor

And took a taxi across town, in the rain

Past more of impressive BA...

Parilla!

Having done the market, we were hungry, and in the mood for the other Argentine national pastime (not futbol), grilled meat. Average beef consumption in Argentina is 119 lbs. Chicken and pork and fish are considered vegetables. We wanted to avoid the tourist parillas in Recoleta and so headed for Desnivel, a neighborhood parilla of some note in Telmo. The real thing.

Thus

Use of cutlery is an extra 20 pesos; but it tastes better ripped
apart by hand...

In addition to the Malbec (obligatoire) I had the national
cocktail, Fernet Branca in Coke; worst thing I have ever put
in my mouth; but, hey, it's a cocktail..

Ceiling decor

Other decor

Where the action is

By the door, the real action

Viva Argentina!

The bread is served on a leather tray; lots of leather in this
country

A simple lunch: Vicki has the chorizo, I have the luomo; and
frites

Proper garlic/parsley frites; not the powdered crap

No need for doggie bags as we stagger/waddle away...