Tuesday, May 27, 2014

L'église de St. Eustasius

The Church of St. Eustace is across from Les Halles, and, tall and flamboyant, it is surely one of the landmarks of the city. It is of very late Gothic style and architecture, built from 1532-1632. It is said to house a few large Rubens, but I'll have to go back to see them.
St. Eustace, facade and south side















Nave















Choir




















Vaulting, interesting late Gothic, very high




















North transept and rose window




















Organ















A bit of the elevation; must re-visit this place

Marcher entre Belle architecture ainsi que d'autres

Our walk continued back onto the right side, along various streets and avenues and boulevards, past many beautiful and other buildings, toward the Opera district.
Hotel de Ville















Beautiful Art Nouveau almost anywhere you
look





















Almost anywhere




















We stopped for a quick lunch















Then continued our walk past Les Halles, where construction of the new Les
Halles continues...
















Someday it will all look like this















The one older part not torn down















We stopped for a quick look into the St. Eustace church (next post)















And then carried along further















A building that would have been quite at home in Barcelona





















Another interesting building on Rue Reaumur















Another beauty

La Cathédrale de Notre Dame de Paris

So Monday we set forth on a walking tour, starting at the Hotel de Ville, crossing the river, looking at the cathedral, and then walking back along the right side from the Pompidiou through Les Halles to the Opera district. It was an all-day thing, with many sights, so I'll let Paris scènes, neuf extend through a couple more posts.
The usual crowd...the Mother of them all...




















Knave view
















A bit of the elevation, including the huge glazed gallery
















Ditto; despite being a cloudy day, the interior was still lovely
















North rose window
















Pretty old; not the first Gothic, nor even the first Gothic
cathedral, but pretty old

















Screen around the choir
















One of several models
















Traditional view...well, better from the Left Bank
















Bow view




















Still on the Ile de la Cite, we found the "traditional" site of the residence of
Heloise and Abelard (identified in 1849, at the height of the 19th century's
Medieval craze); Sic et Non









Sunday, May 25, 2014

Le marché Bastille

We always seem to be going to the Bastille: not that we're Revolutionaries, it's just the largest nearby center and a pleasant short walk, too. Today, Sunday, was market day, le marché Bastille is one of the best known, and I have some new recipes requiring the freshest of ingredients.
The beginning of the market, Blvd. Richard Lenoir, off the
Place de la Bastille
















Quail eggs















Nice display of shrimp















Impressive seafood stalls; we're not all that far from the
Channel, and lotte, aka monkfish, aka poor man's lobster,
was plentiful (I used to use it, when I could get it, in my
bouillabaise)


















All manner of asparagus, including wild; note the black
tomatoes to the right
















Niece Stacey has joined us and is enjoying the quotidien as
well as the the sights
















Market scene















All manner of prepared food as well as the ingredients















On my walk back home (the others went to the Eiffel Tower,
etc.), an emerging favorite place, Le Bistrot du Peintre
















At another Rue de Charonne restaurant, delivery of the
afternoon pre-frites...
















Still walking home...along the Boulevard Voltaire (!), several
blocks either side of Rue de Charonne  (our street), a weekend
market springs up...the professional flea market types are well
represented, but mostly it seems to be the family garage/attic/
basement spring cleaning...so it has occurred to me now that
maybe our best strategy is to take all our crap from the
storage unit in Missoula, pack it into a container, ship it here,
and, next spring, open L'American merde Store on the Blvd.
Voltaire























He'll always have Paris

Friday, May 23, 2014

Bastille, du Marais, et au-delà

Thursday Vicki, Marie, and I took a walk down Rue de Charonne to the Bastille and then along Rue St. Antoine into the Marais and nearby precincts, ending up finally at the Hotel de Ville. Our apartment is about 2 miles from the center of the city.
The Bastille has been a site of rallies, protests,
demonstrations, etc., since, um, 1789; today's
rally was for railway worker solidarity; the
smoke is mostly from their grills and BBQs






















Closer up; the animal rights folk also were there, but hanging
back a bit
















Beaumarchais, "playwright, watchmaker, 
inventor, musician, diplomat, fugitive, spy, 
publisher, horticulturalist, arms dealer,  
satirist, financier, and revolutionary (both 
French and American" (Wikipedia)
bemusedly looks on, from a distance; he's
already seen it all

























From the area of the Bastille the shoppes keep getting
trendier and more exclusive; the facades are often of the
stores of yesterday, which, thankfully, have mostly been
preserved and maintained

















In the Place des Vosges; beautiful shoppes, restaurants,
galleries
















Wrote most of his biggest hits right here















In one of the galleries















So I have now figured out this is a chain; and it is my job to
inspect for consistency among the many Paris branches...
















Hotel Sully















Obligatory stop for a family favorite




















Sic transit, Gloria; a boulangerie for decades, perhaps, and
now...
















In the old Jewish district, Hector Guimard's
1913 Art Nouveau synagogue





















Thus; we'll be seeing lots more Guimard















More sic transit...once a Hammami, now COS




















Once a famous deli















Not a boulangerie anymore















Also not a boulangerie anymore















I wonder what the Pompidiou will be a century from now...















Will it stand the test of time like the the Hotel de Ville?