Wednesday, May 1, 2013

More Old Town Bilbao

Cathedral


















Stores built in to the side of the cathedral, just as in the old
days















In the Plaza Miguel Unamuno


















Tribute to the Philosopher


















Street scene...a rainy cool day


















In the attractive 18th century Plaza Nueva














Where we examined all the pintxos joints, settling finally














On Victor Montes'














Enjoying something a little more staid than this flotilla of
squid-laden jamon boats approaching (while Vicki did her
email)
















I later bought a nice Basque cap...not from
this store



















And we spent another hour or so just
admiring the old town before the heavy
weather arrived




















Mural ceiling in arcade across from the
Mercado...went on for a couple blocks



















Beautiful place...we'll be back

Bilbao's Mercado Ribera

We wanted to spend more time in Bilbao and particularly to see some of its old town. Happily, bus #58 carried us all the way the next day to the old town and back. First stop was Bilbao's newly renovated city market, the Mercado Ribera.
A beautiful new-looking structure














Full of light and air














And stained glass; like a cathedral of Basque food














Pretty much the same sights and smells, despite the glass
and stainless steel















And crowds














Resting in peace














At the cafe, breakfast pintxos (tapas)

Bilbao Guggenheim Again

A day at the Guggenheim last August wasn't enough, so we drove on from Burgos to Bilbao and its mountain-top camper-stop over-looking the city...only to find it closed until June! But we parked in the adjacent car-park, and were joined by other campers there, and promptly took the #58 bus down to great museum.
View (x16) from the camper-stop to the Guggenheim














In a few minutes, and a tram ride, you're there


















Dog and puppy show














We spent the first couple hours viewing an exhibition on
French art during WWII, 1937-1947; particularly impressive
in relating political and military events to events in the
artists' lives; not a happy story altogether

















A Frenchman named Steib, from Mulhousen,
stole the show...



















Thus; obviously was not exhibited until 1945...














But then we spent most of our time learning about toros, and
cones, and spirals, in the Richard Serra The Matter of Tiime 
exhibit, which we both love; and then walking, thoughtfully
















Thus














And looking around

Self-portraits in giant metallic tulips



























And around





Burgos Cathedral, 2

More of Burgos...
In one of the chapels, numbered floor tombs; let's see, 18,
14, 19, 15...defensive backs obviously















Back side of the altar, some restoration going on














Christian graffiti














In the large halls around the cloister green














Casket of El Cid; it's a long story; not in the movie














Bishops' gallery














Visigothic Bible, 960AD














Play of light in cloister hall














Killing Moors; at least it's not in the altar...














Mine's bigger than yours department: present footprint
super-imposed on former Romanesque church















Burgos especially needs a model to be intelligible














South-side plaza

Burgos Cathedral, 1

We decamped and drove on to Burgos to see its famous cathedral. The town itself is beautiful but not very RV friendly. We wound up parking in a large free lot out by some new apartment blocks. Still only 1.5k from the cathedral and historic center.

I am still processing Burgos cathedral. It was begun in the early 13th century, but it was not completed until the 16th; it is of moderate size, is flamboyant Gothic inside and out and very impressive to look at from the outside.  It's on the inside that I have problems. In most such churches, you can see the extent of the place, and, normally, are humbled and awed. In Burgos, the choir and chancel are of such size and height that you simply can't see from one end to the other. Disappointing, especially when the exterior is so impressive. Moreover, the church is literally surrounded by 15 different and sizable chapels, again limiting or distorting one's sense of the larger building. And then there are the cloister, itself beautiful, and assorted out-buildings that complicate matters. Whatever Burgos was/is, it is not a church for the worshiping masses. There's no place for them. On a more positive note, I should add that of all the cathedrals we have visited, Burgos had by far the best presentation of itself, via an excellent audioguide, its museum, and a variety of other historical exhibits. Most cathedrals have little or nothing, and certainly not in English too. Burgos was superb in this respect.
Along the downtown river-front in Burgos














Main gate to inner city














Burgos Cathedral, from the southwest; there are actually two of the giant towers
on the west facade















Inside, the "fly-catcher," opens his mouth on the hour














This is what I mean: the damned choir takes up almost the whole nave; where
would the people be? 















Burgos was built was a hill-side and thus the port side is a couple floors higher
than the starboard; and thus these golden staircases; note the parade float on the
lower left, with the largest (silver) hood ornament I have seen apart from Dali


















Thus


















At the crossing, the tomb of El Cid and wife, the Cid-ess



















Looking up from the crossing














Closer up














Nice, but roped off














Detail














You have to stand in the side-aisle to see the length of the
building, and this is all you can see from the chancel to the
stern; I rest my case