Showing posts with label Vienna. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vienna. Show all posts

Monday, August 30, 2010

Still More Vienna, 3

We had a good stay at Camping Wien; very helpful staff; 
out near the Wienerwald (aka Weenie World)















The gist here, I think, is that it will cost you
36 euros if you don't pick up your doggie's
droppings




















Don't mind the gap: on selected Vienna subway cars, a little
ramp extends for baby carriages, wheeled luggage, etc.







Futbol fans; the Vienna Rapid plays in a stadium near our
subway station; costumery and paraphrenalia are similar
to American football fans








In the station by the opera is the Vienna Opera Toilets,
where, for 60 cents, you can answer Nature's call to the
strains of the Danube Waltz






Interior view











I spent too much of my youth and young adulthood reading
and puzzling over the writings of the Austrian philosopher
Ludwig Wittgenstein








And so had to see the Haus Wittgenstein at 18 Parkgasse;
after publishing the Tractatus Logico-Philosophicus in
1923 or so, and figuring, modestly, he had solved all the
problems of philosophy, Wittgenstein designed this
(Bau-) Haus for his sister (with the architect Paul
Engelmann); the Wittgensteins were incredibly wealthy
Austrian industrialists; that's another several stories...it's
now the home of the Bulgarian Cultural Institute;
sic transit, Gloria....








I'm (still) taking suggestions for a caption...





























































Still More Vienna, 2

Vienna is where cafe society was born, and Hawelka's
was perhaps the most famous















I had a coffee, melange, and a strudel, and lamented
that the day of the smoke-filled cafe, writers and
artists, is now gone; they're all down at the Starbucks,
I was told, for the wifi















In 1989, we had the Sacher Torte at the Hotel Sacher
















This time, we thought we'd try the other "authentic" source,
Demel; Vienna is the capital of the pastry world, they say, 

and Demel is the capital of pastry in Vienna, they say; 
therefore...

















One of Demel's showrooms

















We had the little Sacher Torte that afternoon


Our subway passed by the Schloss Schoenbrunn, the
summer palace of the Hapsburgs; we had gone there
in 89 and so skipped it this time; too much Austrian
official yellow paint can be hard on the eyes

Still More Vienna

More sights from Vienna

Street scene in old town











Vienna's Rathaus, made up for the International Film
Festival








It faces the Hofburg Theatre, with a park and huge food
court in between the two








Food court








The Rathaus restaurant, where, in 1989, I had my first
cream of garlic soup; no longer on the menu...










Vienna plague monument










Midnight ride of Franz Josef I, Rathaus in background








The Hofburg, Austria's answer to Versailles (well,
technically, I guess that would be the Schoenbrunn, a few
miles out in the woodburbs); we went to the Hofburg in 89,
so skipped it this time











Mozart gets a nice statue, near the opera, but
he has to share this town with Haydn,
Beethoven, Gluck, Mahler, Schoenberg, all the
Strauss's, et al.

Vienna's Karlskirche

Not far from the Karlsplatz station is the Karlskirche, Vienna's Baroque church.
Karlskirche; the east side; note weird towers, modeled on
Trajan's column in Rome








Some heavy renovation going on in here










Also a mass

Kunsthistorischemuseum

That's German for art history museum. The KHM is one of our favorite museums. It was one of the first purpose-built public museums, it's beautiful (the Hapsburgs spared no expense in building it), they collected art for 700 years, and the collection is much to our liking with all its Cranachs and Breughels and Arcimboldos and others.
Kunsthistorischemuseum, part of the MuseumsQuartier









Marie Theresa presiding over it all











Looking up into the dome, as everyone does upon entering the building







Somebody killing a centaur











Cranach's "Judith"; compare Klimt's (earlier
post)












Lots of painters around







View from our lunch table, looking down from the dome
area, 2nd floor





Elder Breughel's Tower of Babel; after a few weeks in
Poland, Czech Republic, and now Hungary, we're really
beginning to relate to the Babel thing; fortunately, so far,
enough people speak enough English...








Another large Breughel







Breughel's "Hunters in Snow," said to be the first European
painting to depict snow









And, Breughel's "Conversion of Paul" (fairly well buried in
the larger canvass)

















Vicki really likes Arcimboldos; I think
they're scary















Caravaggio's "Virgin of the Rosary"; I
thought the "Ascension of Salvador and
Gala" (Dali; see posts from Spain) was
the first work of art to depict dirty feet, but
no, it was Caravaggio, 300 years earlier














Half the KHM is its classical collection, which nearly rivals
the British Museum; what's especially cool about the KHM
is that each room is designed and decorated in accordance
with its artifacts











Aristotle













Display of Roman busts







Collection of Etruscan helmets








Second-largest ancient cameo yet found

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Heuriger

One of the things one does in Vienna is journey out to the surrounding hills and vineyards to visit a heuriger, a wine garden right on the vineyards, to drink the new wine. The fashion began when the emperor exempted new wine from taxation. Such is the power to shape behavior and society through taxation. We took trams, subways, and buses out to Neustift am Walde.

Where a three-day street fair had been going on (we'd had
to detour around it on the way in to Vienna)







And found a table at this heuriger: Fuhrgassle-Huber







The wine does not have to travel far









View from our table, which we shared over the course of
the evening with Austrians, Poles, others








Dinner; we split some of the pig and half of one of the
chickens, and some potato salad, and, of course, a few mugs
of the fresh white wine













Vicki, contented with the foregoing and now
apple strudel mit cream (note empty wine
mug)













Things really got lively when the old Austrian band showed
up







The street party continued as we left