Saturday, May 11, 2019

Milan: The Victor Emmanuel Galleria And Camparino

The Victor Emmanuel Galleria (1877) is one of Milan's architectural glories, the largest of the steel and glass shopping malls built in the later 19th century. Others have folded or languished, but this one has thrived. It threw out McDonald's some years ago to make room for a second Prada. (McDonald's is now down the street, on less hallowed ground). If your town has a "galleria" shopping center, it's knowingly or unknowingly named after this place. It is situated between two of Milan's other major cultural glories, the Duomo and La Scala. Milanos think of it as the city's living room.

Another cultural glory of Milan is Campari. Italy has cultural glories without number, and quite a few of them are potable. My favorite, currently, is Campari, the red bitter that comprises aperitifs world-wide. They also own Aperol, the sweeter, low-test orange version you see young people drinking, also world-wide. My favorite drink these days is the Negroni, invented in Florence, it is said, but its chief flavor is Campari (the red vermouth sweetens it a bit and the gin puts it right on the edge between an aperitif and a cocktail). But I digress. Camparino is the old family bar, situated right at the Duomo gateway to the Galleria, a place of honor. How could I not have a Negroni at Camparino, at the Galleria?
Galleria entrance from the Duomo steps

Assorted views in the Galleria





At the octagonal crossing

From our table at Camparino






"Hey, careful man, there's a beverage here!"

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