Basilica Di San Clemente

We visited very briefly last June, balking at the "no fotos" policy and the 10E/pp price of admission. See http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2018/06/2-12-part-first.html. This time, however, with Penelope in tow, and not at all excited about visiting a crypt, we soldiered on, past the Coliseum, and marched right in. After duly examining the sizable chapel on the main floor adorned with 3 walls of Masolino frescoes (Masolino was Massacio's elder partner in doing some of the Brancacci Chapel in Florence; Masolino's bits are often contrasted with Massacio's, thereby demonstrating the brilliance of the Renaissance; personally I think Masolino is impressive enough; but I digress; plus the bouncer was hovering, and I couldn't get even a single shot), I plopped down 20E (children free), and we descended the stairs to the lower realm, where, no bouncer in sight, everyone was snapping and flashing away at all the sights.

A word of explanation. San Clemente is a three-fer. It is interesting enough as a Medieval church, on the site of a couple earlier important church councils, very Romanesque, and the Masolino frescoes are a draw if you're into such things. In 1857, however, the abbot, an Irishman, got curious, and started digging. Long story short is that the "crypt" is actually the early Christian church, later Empire, where the councils were held, quite a bit more extensive than today's basilica. Even more interesting, below the earlier Christian church is a Mithraeum, that is, a temple to the god Mithra. Mithraism was among the rivals of early Christianity in the Empire. Thus, a three-fer. Beyond that are warehouses thought to have been part of republican Rome's mint. And thus our interest, and, considering I took all the fotos I wanted, downstairs, it certainly was worth the price of admission.

View of the basilica from the courtyard

Knave view

The Masolino frescoes; this and the preceding off the web

Downstairs now in the early Christian basilica...ancient detritus in the wall

View of the expanse

Embedded column

Very old fresco

Mosaic floor

 

More expanse

The Mithraeum

Carved coffered ceiling

Subterranean spring

Herringbone flooring

Very old fresco; neat place