Wednesday, October 29, 2008

R and R in Kathmandu; and Thanks...

We are back in Kathmandu, again at the Meridien, east of the city. We decided to cut the trek a couple days short since it was unclear whether Vicki could make it from Namche to Lukla in two days. As it turned out, she did, and we caught a Yeti flight to Kat on Tuesday. I'll have to visit Thame next time. Flying stand-by out of Lukla gave us plenty of time to think about the “airport” there and to watch a dozen or more flights come and go before seats became available. Excellent YouTube representations are at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCQVLw_4brY and at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUQ8K1V0MQc.

So we're resting up and recuperating in Kathmandu, or, rather, at the hotel in Gokarna Forest, away from the insane bustle of Kat. Yesterday we had our promised “Adam and Eve” massages, and Vicki even had a hamburger at the hotel restaurant (I had a wonderful chicken red curry). The hotel grounds here are fairly crawling with monkeys—another kind of bustle...pesky little bastards—I have come to fear and loathe them.

We're also reflecting on the trek, looking at the hundreds of photos taken (when will I ever get them edited, sized, compressed, transferred, etc.?). It was an amazing trip, difficult, arduous, unpleasant at times, but worth it and something we're very proud (and not a little surprised) to have done. For two people who have always loved mountains and mountain scenery, this was the ultimate experience, done the right way.

We could not have done it alone, however (we'd still be in the Kat airport trying to find the plane). We owe a great many thanks to Dawa Geljien Sherpa, of Adventure Thamserku Treks & Expeditions, Kathmandu, who found us a guide and porter, who counseled us on itinerary and related matters, and who got us on the right plane. Our guide, Mingma Tshirng Sherpa of Lukla, pictured above with Vicki at the Lukla airport, was the star of the show, leading us all the distance up and down and back, encouraging us, counseling us on the ways of Himalayan trekking, making plans and arrangements, helping Vicki down the rough ground, keeping us out of the way of yaks and zopkyos and porters, and answering the thousand and one questions we had about Sherpa and Tibetan culture, history and Buddhism, climbing, flora, fauna, and the rest. With Mingma, we also got to experience first-hand why the Sherpa is so highly regarded—not merely for strength and endurance, but also for patience, judiciousness, honor, reverence, and oneness with the land. Lastly we owe thanks to our porter, Khanza, who literally shouldered the load, with unfailing cheerfulness and reliability. Vicki has written in her blog about the plight of porters here. We hope we treated Khanza with dignity and some generosity.

Anyone interested in trekking in Nepal, either the EBC, Anna Purna, or some other, or climbing, would do well to contact Dawa via www.adventurethamserku.com (lukla@mos.com.np) and/or Mingma at boam_mingma1982@hotmail.com. I should add that Dawa's sister owns and manages the Congde View guest house in Lukla, the best guest house we stayed in on the trek, and we much enjoyed her sincere hospitality as well. Oh...and librarian/veteran Nepal trekker Craig Seasholes of Seattle answered Vicki's query on a library listserv last spring and initiated all the connections that have so greatly benefited us. Thank you also, Craig.




Vicki adds:

October 31, Kathmandu

We made it back to Kathmandu Tuesday, after a stand-by flight from Lukla. So our Himalayan trek is done, a success. Unfortunately, a shoulder pain that appeared Tuesday has grown into a full-fledged debilitating condition. We think it is a pinched nerve in my back or shoulder, but I can't even sit up or stand without intense pain. I'm taking pain pills recommended by doctor in-law Beth, but am beginning to wonder what it's going to be like riding an elephant in Chitwan next Monday. Hopefully, it will get better with a few days' rest. Mark is typing this for me and I will respond to emails as I can.

1 comment:

Alessandro Vernet said...

Great post and thank you for the recommendations!